Anti-corrion case?

Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by gordonfurr1, Apr 30, 2015.

  1. gordonfurr1

    gordonfurr1 Forte User

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    Ok...
    I know I'm crazy... no news there.
    BUT, the old cookoo clock is always ticking...


    Think about this:

    Oxygen is required for corrosion, right?

    What if your case had a seal around the opening lid, and a small compressed nitrogen bottle inside...
    Once you wipe down the trumpet to remove hand acids, close the case, seal the lid, press the air purge button, and the nitrogen canister releases enough volume to push out the air through the one way bleed valve, and the case is now filled with nitrogen until opened.
    The canister is removable and easily refillable at car service stations and tire centers.
    Thoughts?
    Gordon
     
  2. gbshelbymi

    gbshelbymi Mezzo Piano User

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    Sounds like it's more hassle and cost than it's worth, to be honest.
     
  3. Dale Proctor

    Dale Proctor Utimate User

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    Horns tarnish MUCH more slowly if they are kept in a closed hard case. Sure, there's some air trapped in there, but the lack of circulation does wonders for keeping tarnish away. For me, that's good enough.
     
  4. gordonfurr1

    gordonfurr1 Forte User

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    So am I...but yet my wife still took me.
     
  5. gordonfurr1

    gordonfurr1 Forte User

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    Prompted to think of this due to my Conn 28b now being raw brass...and dozens of my French horns...which are much more often raw and have a much larger surface area.
    Maybe museum archival instruments?
     
  6. veery715

    veery715 Utimate User

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    More practical for the vintage reds.
     
  7. gordonfurr1

    gordonfurr1 Forte User

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    Reds...

    Isn't that a stimulant?
     
  8. gordonfurr1

    gordonfurr1 Forte User

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    ANTI-CORROSION
    BTW.
    Fat fingers.
    Fat head.
     
  9. gordonfurr1

    gordonfurr1 Forte User

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    I've always been more concerned about what happens to the metal on the INSIDE of the horn more than the outside...yeah, acids and oils from the hands gets onto the exterior, but the INSIDE gets the warm, moist, sugar-laden breath, enzyme-rich saliva, acids, bacteria, viruses, left-over meatloaf from two days earlier...ALL THAT plus the INSIDE is usually devoid of any protective coating, almost never gets wiped down after play, and remains moist far longer than the exterior.
    A nitrogen atmosphere in the case would protect the sensitive INSIDE of the instrument from reactive oxygen.
    Consider this:
    Say, you average an hour a day of playing (I don't)...
    And the horn resides inside the case the other 23 hours...
    Then having the horn's environment isolated from oxygen 23/1 of the time should noticeable effect a lengthening of the life of the horn...if indeed exposure to oxygen is the greatest catalyst that allows the chemical reactions to occur...and I suspect it truly would play a significant part.
    Having a particularly valuable instrument, especially a totally raw instrument, exacerbates the significance.
    Using such a device is no big deal...
    Everything would be done exactly the same way as you currently do it, except for just pressing a button when closing up the instrument, and actually, even that could be automatically done.
    Nitrogen refills are commonplace now.
    Where you get your gas, or tires, or maintenance, there is a connection with a Shraeder valve coupler...stick it on, charge the canister. And that, only every few weeks.
    Does EVERYBODY need a nitrogen storage box?
    Of course not...but if I had one of those three or four thousand dollar raw brass Harrelsons you can bet your bippee that I would want to do everything that I could to preserve its life.
     
  10. Sethoflagos

    Sethoflagos Utimate User

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    Except for a very effective passive oxide layer that is generally quite sufficient protection providing it isn't disturbed by over-enthusiastic cleaning.

    It's not the main problem. More of an issue is the carbon dioxide dissolved in the condensation from our breath, particularly if it is loaded with sulphide from halitosis. This can get quite acidic, chew through the protective oxide layer and start leaching zinc. Slow process, but this is the typical environment for encouraging red rot to take hold.

    Best practise is to buy instruments that have rot-immune leadpipes (red brass, nickel-silver etc).

    Failing that, just rinse through after every practise session with warm (unsoftened!) tap water. It flushes out the acidic stuff and the small amount of carbonate hardness mops up any residual carbon dioxide, keeping the pH safely on the alkaline side of neutral.


    IF there is any nasty organic material in your instrument (do people really get this?), the last thing you want to do is take away the oxygen. This would promote the proliferation of anaerobic microorganisms (SRBs etc) and you really don't want that happening.
     

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