Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by hhsTrumpet, Jul 18, 2014.
Option #48: Use this golden opportunity as an excuse to shop for another horn.
I understand that you own your own music store and all but, it is quite beneficial to the horn if you remove the valve and wipe down the casings, and the valve to remove all of the oil and then re-oil it. For me, the trick to super slick valves is not only lubrication the valve, but dripping some on the inside of the valve casings so that they are both lubricated, increasing speed, and decreasing friction. Let us not forget that valve oiling (every day or after playing, depends on the frequency of practice) is also essential to removing any dried oil, saliva, and food particles from the valves to prevent pitting and a mess of other things. It is quite critical that all of that stuff gets out of your horn rather than just washing it down into the bottom of the valve casings.
Just my two cents...
How do we "suspect" that a valve is bent. Either it is or it isn't. The tolerances are tight but measurable. So if they order on suspicion, what if it is the valve casing instead the valve, does he just lap the new valve in until it works and charge for a valve that wasn't needed AND the wrong repair?
I agree with Ivan, strange ending and I would want to get a second opinion before spending money!
The third valve works in none of the casings. The other valves work in all casings including the third. So he knows that the third valve is bent and nothing wrong with the casing. Bad word choice on my part. Anyways he called me again later and said the repair is done. I'll see how it turned out when I pick it up tomorrow.
See if you can get an explanation what was bent. It does take "noticable" force to mess a valve up.
Cool that it is fixed. I can imagine how it is to be without your "baby"!
Ditto the bent valve. Burr on a valve port or the bottom out of round from a drop during oiling seems more plausible to me. I'd want the bad valve. Anyway, enough contrary advice on this horn. Glad you got it back!
I really have no interest in debating this issue. Oil your valves however you want. I don't care what you do. I have read many of your posts on this forum and your 2 cents aren't worth a penny to me. The op damaged his piston in some way, who knows how it happened, but I doubt it would have happened if he had been using my method of oiling valves for students.
The horn took a hit in Austria on a band concert tour - in the gig bag, was hanging briefly there, but started working normally again. Now at home after cleaning, it started to cause grief again. It had nothing to do with the method of oiling.
Oiling properly (on blank metal) can and should be taught and learned - preferably early in the careers of aspiring trumpeters. Anyone who can deal with toilet paper and intimate areas of their own bodies, has all of the skills required to wipe a valve down, swab the casing and oil the blank, dry metal. If the trumpet/band teachers place no value on these vital skills, then they are the ones that failed. If we oil when we are supposed to, then we do not have to when we have to. The worst time to oil is when a bunch of other people are in the vicinity, concentration goes down and the chance of someone else doing something stupid is a real danger. There is no need for any debate. all of the methods have been presented and the logic behind them. Those who are here at TrumperMaster generally are past this stage anyway. It was an eyeopener for me to learn that petroleum based oils have no more "oil" after a day or so. It has evaporated. All the more reason to get the kids onto synthetic oils that lasts at least a week before getting "sludged up"