Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by JamesWolf, Aug 24, 2011.
Good grief. Nothing like a toxic shortcut.
Great idea. It really is a pain to have to stop and oil valves. The efforts seem to have been at valve oils themselves-making them last longer. Your answer would be from a totally different angle. How, if you REALLY want to stir up trouble here, just ask "the" proper way to oil your valves. You will get a variety of answers from unscrewing the valve, to pulling the slide, to going from the bottom cap, to who knows what. And everyone has their reason why they are right. I've always wondered what some of the super oils you see on TV might do for valves -you know the one where they claim it binds to the valves and cylinders of the vehicle and they run the motor for 15 minitues without oil and it never seizes? Yeah-I know for all you that can't stand to loose a few neurons -toxic vapors.
I hate how the posting pictures works on here!
Maui_Jimmy's Patent Pending Trumpet Oil System!
That's the idea. At the level of your oil port you will need a groove ring cut into the piston or the cylinder to distribute the oil around the full circumference of the piston. Perhaps a vertical groove as well to another ring at the bottom to get the oil everywhere.
We will need a Notometer, or Metronome inter-link to download when we need to service, and change oils. I can see some Smoking Valve Jobs ahead.
Not a bad idea, although I do like oiling my valves before and after every play, first thing I do before I play, and again before it goes back into the case. It's a bit like tinkering with an old car, love the smell and visual inspection etc....
It is already being done:
Piston valves have such a large area that capillary action is not enough to move the oil. Remember, the oil has to be "viscous" enough to stick to the metal and create a film. Pistons would require a pressurized system.
if our valves are not too badly worn and properly cared for, they work perfectly with standard valve oil. If they stick, there is a reason - that can be addressed.
There is no reason on earth that we need unnecessary contact with toxic chemicals. There are plenty of stupid things that people have done to themselves by simply not knowing better. We don't need to brag about our indestructibility. We all pay a price for sins previously committed. We are doing no one a favor by inviting the gullible.
Early multi cylinder rotary aircraft engines, and some radials, required the pilot to pump oil to the engine bearings using a hand pump. The loads on our trumpet "bearings" are much lower and regular manual oiling, providing the machinery is kept clean, will serve us all well. Look how well trumpets actually last. Be diligent, focus on the regular maintenance of your horn, using quality lubricants, and you (and your trumpet) will be OK.
If I remember correctly, castor oil was used in WWI--story is, the fumes did what castor oil does to the pilots that, uhh, led some of them to cut holes in the bottom of their seats and going over enemy trenches, it was "bombs away!"
Geez, I was actually gonna be serious with a thread response this time. I scrubbed the Getzen this weekend (rocking like a hurricane) and remembered the part about alcohol in the valve casings. Having NEVER used that approach and I was quite positive MY valves were already spotless, I soaked a clean white rag with alcohol. Uh....okay, so like almost spotless valves......now I know. The valve casings had a wondeful grayish residue left in them, so much for spotless. Re-oil them with Al Class and like greased lightning.....thanx for the class in horn cleaning.......chuck