Grafting a new valve casing thread

Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by trumpetsplus, Jan 17, 2012.

  1. trumpetsplus

    trumpetsplus Fortissimo User

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    I have put up a pictorial blog on a recent repair job - grafting a new bottom thread to a valve casing. It is located at:
    ivan?s blog

    This is a new location for my blog - within my regular site; I have moved it because Apple are discontinuing their Mobile Me hosting. Those of you who take an rss feed of my blog will discover that it will not pull this new entry in. Unfortunately you will have to connect to the new rss feed on the blog page. I am sorry for the inconvenience - Apple is not my favorite company at the moment.

    I hope you enjoy the pictures:-)
     
  2. Brad-K

    Brad-K Piano User

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    Very nice work, and interesting!

    How did you cut the damaged section off (while keeping the cut square and true)? And, that solder looks pretty close to the thread, did you have any heat distortion to the threads? And it looks like the solder is kind of bulging out (as it would naturally do, being molten metal). Did that interfere with the bottom cap seating normally, and did you have to smooth (file) that down flush? And, do you think brazing would have been better, or would that have been too much heat? And, how close to the id of the casing did you machine that jig? And how tight did you thread that jig...hand tight, or a little wrench tightening?
     
  3. codyb226

    codyb226 Banned

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    I can answer that one, he is Ivan Hunter, a great trumpet repairman and maker!
     
  4. Brad-K

    Brad-K Piano User

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    Oh, I see....And, you're his agent/publicist....nice.;-)
     
    codyb226 likes this.
  5. Brekelefuw

    Brekelefuw Fortissimo User

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    Great job. Is there a reason you didn't countersink the new threads in to the casing for added stability? I realize how much more time it would have taken to do that.
    Neat jobs like this one are the thng that makes repairing a rewarding career.
     
  6. rowuk

    rowuk Moderator Staff Member

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    BEAUTIFUL. I had always wondered how you guys fixed stuff like that - never had one of my horns in a train wreck.
     
  7. amzi

    amzi Forte User

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    Very impressive!
     
  8. A.N.A. Mendez

    A.N.A. Mendez Utimate User

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    Very nice! Impressive, I have wondered if this could be done.
     
  9. jiarby

    jiarby Fortissimo User

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    Interesting post Ivan...

    What did you charge for this job....was it worth the time and equipment costs you have into it??

    What caught my eye was that you were doing this to a 20+ year old Yamaha 6445... and in that condition it is not a $x,xxx horn. Maybe mid 3 digits.
    It seems like this kind of repair would come close to costing the same as replacing the horn. I also noticed the bell looks different... did you also replace the bell? That 1st slide bell brace looks different. A horn that age may also need a valve job!

    My yammy is #001051... close to the same age as your example. I paid $700 for mine.

    If you think about it... at what point is a horn "totaled". Not that it is un-repairable, just uneconomical to repair. How much should a guy pay to repair a $500 horn?]


    PS...
    How the heck did this guy tear a chunk out of his valve casing??
     
  10. trumpetsplus

    trumpetsplus Fortissimo User

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    I filed the threaded section down flat...carefully!

    The thread is relieved before the new section meets the casing (this is also the case on all trumpets - the thread doesn't go all the way to the casing proper.

    To braise the new section on would have heated the cluster too much and the soft soldered joints, like the bell tail, would have let go.

    The jig was nipped up hand tight only - there needs to be space for the solder to flow into the joint.
     

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