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Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by trumpeter345, May 30, 2011.
Dale, you mean when you can play all 300 of your instruments at 100%
I'm thinking of installing some o-rings on my Bach 7c mouthpiece, by the way, I think is an excellent beginning mouthpiece
Some say it's the best in the world/ever (and will argue such 'til death)!
There is always room for innovation. I don't think a line should be drawn.
When you're good enough to tell a difference with a piece of voodoo, then you might want the voodoo. Voodoo works on the mind as well as the horn, though. However, if your horn is deficient in some way that you think needs voodoo for improvement, you probably either need a better/different horn or more practice, or a combination of the two. Really, if you already have good equipment, this stuff is fun to talk about, but it's not where the "rubber meets the road". I frequently have to perform on a 19th century cornet, so I can really appreciate a nice modern one, even if it's not perfect.
If I were to make a guess, I'd say that probably just about everything you mod on a trumpet makes some small difference in what you hear or feel, even down to water keys, valve guides, springs, weights, o-rings, etc. The deal is, are you a better horn designer than the guys who built it, and can you improve the basic playability of an instrument with loose add-ons (I'm not talking mouthpipes, bells, etc.) ? In most cases, the changes aren't enough to make any real world difference, so why spend the time fooling with them? How many real professional trumpet players do you see with voodoo doodad parts on their horns?
I have small o-rings on some of my 3rd valve slides (on the horns I mostly play...all 300 of 'em, coolerdave...). After adding them, I sure couldn't tell any difference in the way the horns played, but the slide action was more quiet, which was my goal.
I agree with Dale that those little O rings could make a difference ..... Thick ones came on my 38b Connstellation. So, when I decided to use only the 1st slide trigger, I clamped the 3rd slide shut and took off the finger ring. Just to be precise, I closed the 3rd slide only until it was snug and clamped it shut like that. If you close it with more force, the little rubber rings can get pushed up over the slide, making it metal to metal contact. Probably makes no differenece, but just in case ....
I'm thinking that if everyone would use their 3rd valve slide "everytime" -- then they would get used to "tuning" those notes that need to be tuned and would know where the slide position works best.
ps. -- I know some of you use the 3rd (and 1st) valve slides just like I do -- and certainly the "O" rings are to make the think quieter.
pss -- I am thinking about modifying my horn to have a 2nd valve slide -- just so I can define a "new" way to pimp out a horn ----------mmmmmm, I need to buy a few more Conns, and Bachs to cut up -- that way I won't ruin a good horn.
"I am thinking about modifying my horn to have a 2nd valve slide"....easier to put a "T" in the 1st & 3rd valve slide and run the 2nd valve slide thru them
Or you could just buy a Conn 80A with the mechanism. Then all you need to pimp yo ride is the o-rings!
Rubber O rings may be a nemisis to all silver plated instruments as the sulphur as may be in the rubber will stain silver plate ... I didn't say tarnish ... I said stain. Mine are silicone.
However, from a different source I received a report that just a minute touch of crazy glue applied from a pointed round toothpick at the juncture of inner tube and slide and allowed to dry "killed" the click even better than an O ring. Personally, I'm taking a disclaimer for liability if any reader trys this, but I may try it in one of my horns.