Leadpipe cleaning - SUPER nasty in there - how do YOU clean it?

Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by Osren, Jan 23, 2013.

  1. Brad-K

    Brad-K Piano User

    Jun 18, 2011
    ...along with a bunch of other, superfluous nonsense.

    But hey, what simply works is too "elementary" for you geniuses.

    ...And, valve oil belongs in VALVES.
  2. Osren

    Osren Mezzo Forte User

    Oct 17, 2010
    Mesa, Az
    Ok, I FINALLY got around to messing with the NASTY leadpipe.

    I decided to try the Citric Acid method (went to Walmart in the Canning section and bought what looked like a large spice container of Citric Acid Powder.. 4 oz maybe- cost like $2 - $3)

    I used 2 Tablespoons of the powered Citric Acid in about 1/2 cup of warm tap water.
    It dissolves VERY easily - I mixed it with my finger just to be sure though
    I pulled my main tuning slide out
    Shoved a cork in the bottom (tested that it would hold water)
    then poured the citric acid/water solution into the lead pipe
    Let it sit there on my Trumpet stand for maybe 20 minutes or so
    Then I dumped the solution out
    Pulled the Cork
    Rinsed with Water
    and did a quick check down the tube - it was noticably better, but still not fully clean
    Grabbed my pipe brushes (snake) and had at it for a few minutes
    Rinsed it again
    and looked down the tube --- almost PERFECTLY clean.

    I am VERY impressed at how easy this was to do.

    One more question for those of you that USE Citric Acid in cleaning your trumpets -- would it be safe to submerge my trumpet in a water / citric acid solution? Will this effect either the lacquer / raw brass (or other raw metals) / silver plating?

    I assumed plating would be fine... was a little hesitant on the lacquer.

    What about using this same idea in an Ultrasonic Cleaner??
  3. misty.sj

    misty.sj Forte User

    Jan 27, 2008
    Brisbane, Australia
    I don't know but I think it might damage the lacquer. I'd be careful. I'm glad it worked inside the lead pipe though. :)
  4. stumac

    stumac Fortissimo User

    Oct 19, 2008
    Flinders Vic Australia
    My repairer uses a bath of a mixture of Citric and Phosphoric acids, when I asked him the proportions he replied "I dont know, just a generous amount of each".
    He has cleaned both new and vintage horns for me with no effect on the lacquer.

    At home I use an approximate 5% solution of CLR, half fill a 30 litre plastic container with water and add 1 bottle of CLR (750ml) this is not an agressive solution, I have inadvertently left lacquered slides in it overnight with no damage.

    Regards, Stuart.
  5. gmonady

    gmonady Utimate User

    Jan 28, 2011
    Dayton, Ohio
    The Martin Committee manual actually recommends sending valve oil down the first valve slide. So this I guess makes sense as well. I too notice a difference in valve action when sending the oil down the first valve.
  6. gmonady

    gmonady Utimate User

    Jan 28, 2011
    Dayton, Ohio
    Soap and a snake, that's what I use... followed by a 91% isopropyl alcohol rinse. Snakes for the advice.
  7. Richard Oliver

    Richard Oliver Forte User

    Jul 18, 2006
    Casper, WY
    Yup. Bathtub. It's easy.
  8. misty.sj

    misty.sj Forte User

    Jan 27, 2008
    Brisbane, Australia
    I have always heard that the best way to oil the valves is through the slide couplings. Is this different from what you mean?
  9. SteveRicks

    SteveRicks Fortissimo User

    Aug 15, 2009
    Just the first valve slide? Once had a teacher that had us pull slides and oil through them, instead of pulling the valve to oil. I've found it interesting to hear the different methods and reasons. Oiling through slides means you don't risk harming a valve out of the casing or cross-threading the valve cap.
  10. gmonady

    gmonady Utimate User

    Jan 28, 2011
    Dayton, Ohio

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