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Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by johnfin, Sep 26, 2014.
Try some thicker oil.
We can sympathize with your frustration, but, not knowing either the music shop, the repair man, the work carried out, or the amount charged, cannot comment on those issues. We don't even know how you addressed them in the phone call during which you say they were rude. We do not know the materials used for your valves. As has been already stated, a loose valve will chatter on the upstroke; this is more true of Monel than Nickel plate or Stainless Steel. Neither do we know the condition, manufactured or developed, of your instrument.
My suggestion is that you take the instrument to a person who is widely regarded to be accomplished in the art of BRASS repair (unfortunately some woodwind repairers regard brass repair as a branch of plumbing) and get an assessment from them. They would know within one or two minutes what the probable issue was. Probably the first thing I would do is check the valve casing for leaks (excess tolerances).
My normal check list for valve problems is Dirt, Damage, or Distortion. However that presupposes a decent standard of manufacture.
The Chinese horns can be problematic at best. I've got four of them here counting the two my SIL has. My flugle has been the wonkiest of the lot. The valves are a constant problem. I did manage to get it somewhat under control by lapping the casings using a 20 gauge bore mop and rotten stone. A bit messy, but did seem to help, although I do have to clean it more often than my other horns. I believe the Chinese horns generally use monel for the valve material. At least all the ones here are. A polish with whitening toothpaste might be a help, don't use the gel type,though. Try to find the older style just all white stuff.Just my $.02
Or a stiffer spring!
I would recommend ditching the horn and going
for a higher priced but reasonable used horn. For example,
there's a Couesnon from Dillon Music one sale for $695:
Dillon Music - Piccolo Trumpets
By the time you get through with repair estimate costs and the
actual repairs, I think you will have spent way too much, and
how long will it last? It might be worth just biting the bullet and
paying the extra money now. You can always sell a reputable horn
if you don't like it or stop playing piccolo.
Most any (not all) Chinese purchases should be looked at as "Risk Capital" money.
Although this may be the final outcome it is rather premature to talk of scrapping the horn. There are Chinese Piccolos and there are Chinese Piccolos. Some reputable dealers sell them and stand solidly behind their product. This may or may not be a good one, we do not know. All we know is that there has been an unsuccessful attempt at remedying a valve issue. Surely it would be better to investigate that more thoroughly?
Sometimes times I send instruments out of here with the proviso to the customer that a valve problem may not be cured. I have started with the most gentle technique, but the repair may need to be an ongoing process becoming more and more aggressive.
Let's hear more from the OP.....
I see patients all the time in the emergency department who expect me to clarify and cure their complicated medical issues in 30 minutes. These are unrealistic expectations that are often unsafe.
Ivan reminds that aggressive treatment on a trumpet valve may be just as unsafe. Some problems require a progressive approach starting with the most "gentle technique".
I meant holding the valve down, like playing slow whole notes. Pushing the valve fast up and down and there is no problem. I will just stick to playing flight of the bumble bee and the horn will be ok. LOL. So where can I get different springs for trumpets? I think that might really help.
If the springs are good enough for fast playing they are probably fine, however any competent tech will have a selection of springs at hand. One spring which fits a vast majority of modern brands is the standard Yamaha valve spring.
Assuming the springs are inside a "spring box" at the top of the valve, with a guide which locates into the valve casing, do you feel or hear any rubbing as you operate the valve that could be the spring rubbing against the side of the spring box (i.e. collapsing to the side as it is compressed). That is a common failing of lesser brand name springs and will impinge on the smooth action of the valve. It can also be that the spring is not fully located inside the cavity in the guide or the corresponding cavity at the bottom of the stem.
Where are you - we can maybe recommend a good tech.