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Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by Scarlett300, Nov 2, 2015.
Before you get any further, stop letting the cat play it!!
Peter, To my knowledge Bunnings is a well known hardware chain found only in Australia and New Zealand. Comparable to major US hardware chains, doesn't provide accreditation that the sales clerk selling paint has more knowledge about paint than operating a cash register, and then perhaps not even that. By what has been stated I cannot ascertain that the OP lives in either Australia or New Zealand
In the era of the 1950s I was earning money re-painting automobiles in a body repair and paint shop as included customized paint jobs on "hot rods" and other classic vehicles, sometimes even in lacquers in lieu of enamels. The biggest U.S. producer of paints for metal is Glidden, while PPG does make some also. Sherwin Williams primarily offers only domestic household paints although they own many other brands such as Duron and Dutch Boy also.
The alcohol saturated wipes you suggest work great on greases but leave their own residue that repels an over paint. My quart bottle of 91% Isopropril Alcohol is presently within sight as I keyboard on computer albeit my primary usage of it is as a medicinal antiseptic when doing a glucose blood test, but I have also used it to prep areas for application of 3M Command hooks.
You want color to stick to an egg at Easter, you first dip the egg in apple vinegar, yes, a milder form of ascetic acid than the white, but in photography I've used much stronger ascetic acid as a developer stop bath.
For my metal outdoor furniture, mostly steel and wrought iron, I've been using Rust-Oleum brand semi-gloss enamel, The only alkyd as may be in these spray cans would be in the pigment, not the spray carrier and adhesive binder.
Certainly, I could paint wood with copolymer latex even if it were a damp surface just by wiping ahead of my painting with white vinegar. Too, I can encapsulate old oil based exterior paints (some containing lead) by prepping the surface with ureic acid (the odor is horrendous vis animal urine albeit purified).
Peter, all I can say is I believe you've stuck your foot in your mouth when you infer I don't know how to paint. That said, I still won't paint any raw brass musical instrument ... especially my bugle in G as is the only raw brass instrument I have. If I were to strip one, it would again be lacquered ... by someone else now that I've COPD.
Bunnings has close relationships with the Technical Divisions of the major coatings suppliers, they make a phone call and have the answer.
You comment on alcohol prep wipes is BS,
Strip the paint that is currently on the horn then buff the surface to a bright sheen. Do not sand the horn and do not use chemicals to buff the horn. After the horn is completely clean, spray it with a "surface cleaner" (AKA "wax and grease cleaner") then wipe the horn dry using a lint-less cloth before the cleaner has a chance to evaporate. Acetone, lacquer thinner, alcohol, etc. evaporate too rapidly for this purpose. Find a quality black lacquer (you may be able to get a store that sells automotive paint to make you up some spray cans rather than using something from a department or hardware store) and spray the horn. Use a long, smooth motion to create several thin coats, you should probably be able to see the brass under the first couple of coats of lacquer. Repaint following sufficient drying time between coats until you have the finish you desire (5 or 6 thin coats). After that a couple of thin coats of clear lacquer should seal the finish. I have used this technique to refinish a couple of horns and it has worked well for me.
I'm no expert, but I have always had superior durability with appliance epoxy paint when a long lasting finish is needed. In 2004 I repainted a cross and flame for my church and mounted it to the NW side of the building. The flame was with enamel but the cross was in black epoxy. Hands down the black looks like it was just painted yesterday. Got it at ACE Hardware where I work part time, and yes some sales associates have little or no training or knowledge about their products. How can they be experts in plumbing, electrical, paint, lawn care, pest control, and light bulbs? Luckily ACE is terrific about training and you just need to use your vast life experience and when in doubt, READ THE DIRECTIONS on the package. I swear that most customers appreciate it when I admit that I just don't know the answer. The test of a truly good sales associate is to answer the question honestly and do the homework to solve their problem. After all these years I have absolutely no problem tackling any question with my puny little brain. Its not what you know, it's how fast you can look it up. Best wishes.
I'll agree, but early on in this thread, I remembered I gave some advice when we were supplied with the photos when asked the first time.
The photos are gone, but it is a patch up job on a black horn that has adhesion issues. There were wear spots, but others were either impact or straight adhesion failure - maybe a powder coating as an original finish, so likely a Polyester finish.
In any case, I am not recommending a system, just to get it cleaned off and ready for painting. She can speak to shops near her, and they can provide the expertise, with the ability to see and handle the horn.
We are just guessing.