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Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by gordonfurr1, Jun 2, 2015.
Well...still tinkering. Revised finger hooks...INSIGNIA IN BRACE
Closeup of valve area
Except for a post brace near mouthpiece receiver to the bell bow and the "S" insignia brace inside the main tuning slide, all bracing is done to the "brass knuckle" piece that holds the valve actuation pieces, and serves as hand-hold. It is the "backbone" of the instrument. The bell has a fairly long unbraced length from the brass knuckle to the edge of the beadless rim. Being curved slightly upward somewhat stiffens the bell structure slightly more than being purely straight.
I would love to lever the pushbuttons so that actuation is about half the path of travel of a normal piston trumpet. Refinement of action and minimal spring rate is critical to keep pressure levels down and action reliable when activating the valve mechanism. Spring COULD be "screen door" type spring pulling from a small eyelet hook on the rotor shaft down to a nub on the valve tuning slide sheath below...one for each valve. This puts the spring tension nearer the resistance as was mentioned but is nonetheless easy to unhook the spring to have direct access to rotor as opposed to a clockwork spring which is difficult to install/uninstall loaded with tension. Lack of "slop" in linkages would then become even more critical to avoid any buzzes as Ivan mentioned.
Must admit that I'm still having some difficulty visualising the construction here, Gordon, due to lack of depth information.
Does the plane of the second valve slide lie behind that of the first and third? If they all lay in the same plane, you'd have what might be called a 'piping clash'.
Also the bell bow clearly lies behind the plane of the leadpipe, but it's not clear how it gets there. Where does the step backwards happen?
Brace position is critical for sound, intonation and response. Let the expert give you a good starting Point.
Good questions, Seth. I never DID provide the other views as promised. I figured the vertical slides to not quite touch...exactly as per the valve body of the "piccolo" Bb single french horns that you see all over eBay. As a matter of fact, I considered buying one of those $250 Chinese toys for the parts...but figured the quality would just be too poor.
I know that I actually drew the tubes too closely...but didn't do anything about it since I've done very little measuring other that the leadpipe, bell pipe, and valve slide lengths of a trumpet I have. To do a proper job of drafting I would need the specs of a specific valve set, but do not have that yet, so this is really only conceptual.
As far as the step backwards for the trumpet bell, I had envisioned it occurring entirely in the bell bow loop...it being angled something on the order of 15 to 20 degrees from vertical...it would be possible to add a knuckle on the pipe out from the first valve, and then prepared bell bow plumb...but most trumpets achieve this simply by rotating the out pipe from the first valve that 15-20 degrees and I'd probably just do the same thing.
The main tuning slide would have to be angled the opposite way...and, come to think of it, I might would just prefer to add a knuckle to achieve that offset and keep the main tuning slide plumb...as it is such a critical part of the visual effect...and if I do that, I might as well do the knuckle on the first slide out to the bell bow and keep the bell bow plumb.
Well, instead of a knuckle, perhaps a gentle horizontal curve to the pipe(s).
Ivan messaged me some concerns also that I am considering...one being protection of the vulnerable tuning slides from the left hand. Another concern being in having two mirror-imaged triggers making the left hand hold unstable...and I agree, thinking I might have to replace the left hand thumb lever with a fixed ring.
I appreciate everyone looking and making suggestions.
Is that based on a TARV kuhlohorn?
Ain't the valve closest to your face the 1st valve? Or are all my horns numbers backwards?
He ALSO has a 1912 Courtois trumpet (beaten to hell and back but plays) serial number 685!
I want it but it needs restoration and I'm restoring too many things right now.
You can see the "style" similarity here with the old Couesnon natural trumpets and my new rotary peashooter design...one thought I actually had early on was bringing in the tubing so close together that from the audience the trumpet would ACTUALLY look like a soprano sax...making it the extreme finale to the peashooter thought....still like the notion.
deleted due to insipid stupidity.