Rust on valve?

Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by Beau Kemp, Nov 1, 2005.

  1. Beau Kemp

    Beau Kemp New Friend

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    Oct 28, 2005
    Arkansas
    I've got some rust on my 3rd valve. At least it looks like rust...is this normal? The valve is working fine, but I'm afraid it could cause problems in the future. This is a '73 Getzen Eterna Severinsen Model. The rust is mainly on the bottom outside, but there is some on the inside of one of the air holes. Here are some pictures. Any thoughts, comments, snide remarks, suggestions, etc would be appreciated. :-)

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  2. Tootsall

    Tootsall Fortissimo User

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    Yee HAW!
    That looks to me like a buildup of material that can be left behind by some oils. Have you tried cleaning it with a stainless pot cleaner or such? Your horn does have Getzen stainless steel valves and there are cleaners designed to remove deposits from those nice, shiny stainless kitchen pots withouth destroying their polish.

    A brand name that I have tried in the past for removing valve deposits that are really "burned on" is "Lagostina". You could also just send your horn in for a good chem clean which should take care of that as well as all the "interesting things" to be found within the tubing! I doubt that it is rust though.
     
  3. Beau Kemp

    Beau Kemp New Friend

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    Well I've been using Al Cass on the horn since the day I got it and that was about 14 years ago. Maybe it leaves a residue after a long time? Strange that it's only on the third valve. I'll have to inspect the 1 & 2 valves more carefully. Thanks for the advice toots
     
  4. Tootsall

    Tootsall Fortissimo User

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    Al Cass.... yup... same thing I USED to use. (note the accent on the past tense). I'd have valves gumming up after about two weeks, sometimes less... until I switched to a different oil. It would start off as a slightly yellow-ish stain and gradually turn brown. Happened mostly on my 2nd valves and it didn't matter which horn I was playing or what the valve material was. Some folks have body chemistry that just reacts with the stuff that Al Cass is made of.

    Clean 'em up and go to a synthetic oil... Zaja Blue Juice is my favorite at the moment but I also had good luck with Clark Viper Oil. Been away from Al Cass for over a year now and the gumming problem has been gone since I switched.
     
  5. Beau Kemp

    Beau Kemp New Friend

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    I'll try cleaning them up...you think stainless steel pot cleaner should work? I've never heard of such, but I'll look for some.
    I didn't think it was affecting anything, but when I move the valve slowly and listen carefully I can here a scraping noise. If getzen valves are stainless there should be no rust. However one part that looks rusty has a little nick in the surface that I can feel. That's probably a bad thing considering the distances involved are so small.
    I think I am going to try Zaja blue. The scented ones are interesting but I don't really want to associate a certain smell with my horn.
     
  6. camelbrass

    camelbrass Mezzo Forte User

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    I really don't want to step on Ed's toes and I'm no expert on Getzens but I think they're nickel plated not stainless. It's probably worth giving Brett Getzen a buzz and confirming it. If it's a '73 Severinson then it's worth having them replated...and it's probably not a build up caused by Al Cass.

    I may be wrong but give Brett a call anyway.

    Regards,


    Trevor
     
  7. tpter1

    tpter1 Forte User

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    Your pictures aren't showing on my machine, but I can almost guess what they look like.

    I have a Lawler with Getzen valves; they are nickel. There is some discoloration on the 3rd valve; I contacted Brett (via pm on the oTHer site), and he recommended using toothpaste to clean it off. It worked.

    Not sure if yours are the same as they pre-date my valves, but thought I would throw that in there.
     
  8. Beau Kemp

    Beau Kemp New Friend

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    Oct 28, 2005
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    Thanks Trevor, I'll check into it. Being as old as it is, I suppose even stainless steel could be rusted. If they are nickel plated, I bet the plating has worn down so thin in some areas that rust can develop..
    Also when I said '73 it was a guess because the group of serial numbers it in includes several years. It is definitely from the early to mid 70's though. Thanks
     
  9. Tootsall

    Tootsall Fortissimo User

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    Aiii.... good thing I've got my (stainless/nickle/silver) steel toed safety shoes on today. I think you're right, Trevor. Still, I can't imagine the valves actually "rusting" and the patterning I see in the Beau's photos looks like the kind of thing I was finding on my valves (including my '73 Eterna 800 cornet)before I switched oils.

    The other thing I notice is that the inside of the piston passages also shows a bit of a similar-looking stain and I'd say that's a deposit (since I doubt that Getzen would actually plate the inside of the passageways.

    Giving Brett a call or contacting him by email is a good idea: that's definitely a horn that should be worth cleaning/fixing up.
     
  10. Beau Kemp

    Beau Kemp New Friend

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    If the pictures aren't showing, you should be able to right click on the little icon and select "view picture" or something to that effect. It was doing that to me and the above procedure seemed to fix it.

    Good point toots, about the discoloration on the inside of the air passageway. I agree that they might not plate the inside of the passageways. However, wouldn't that make the insides more likely to rust?

    hmmm
     

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