Here is another in the series on maintenance and repair. The original article with picture can be read on my blog: ?? Here is the text of that entry: What to do about sticky and stuck slides? The first thing to do is have a very careful inspection. The most likely causes are our old friends: Dirt Damage Distortion Dirt and corrosion are the most common causes for stuck slides. The corrosion needs to be “cracked” with penetrating oil and judicious use of heat. It can take several days for this to free the slide. Please be patient! Are both slide tubes stuck? In the case of the main tuning slide, the likelihood is that it is mainly the upper slide that is stuck. Bear this in mind when applying force to move the slide. Too much force on the lower will move it too far in relation to the upper which can put so much stress on the slide that the bow bends or the solder joint breaks. It is not possible to use slide pliers on the Yamaha 2335 and certain old Conn student models. This is because of the way the main slide was manufactured. The ferrule is not a ferrule joining tubing, but a tube pressed onto the one-piece slide. Whilst Yamaha’s recommended method of dealing with stuck tuning slides was to cut the slide, remove each half separately and replace the slide with a new one, I always prefer to use the other weakness of this model: its lack of rigidity. A twisting force on the tuning slide will often work to release the slide. In the few cases that it has not, I have unsoldered the upper receiver from the lead pipe and freed the lower slide. A lot of heat on the upper receiver and quenching in cold water normally frees this assembly. Another method that has worked in some cases has been to push the ferrule along the tubing to expose bare metal and solder it in place. If there has been a dent in the outer slide, this will be transmitted to the inner slide. The only way to deal with this is to force the slide out, then deal with each dent individually. If the chassis is distorted, or the slide tubes are out of alignment, this problem needs to be resolved before the slide will move freely, for instance with adjustable 1st or 3rd valves. I use calipers to measure discrepancies in the slide spacing, and a ground block to check on parallel. I also use a clarinet pad feeler gauge to check alignment differences between inner and outer slides. However, never work on slide alignment until all tubing is perfectly clean and free of damage.