Valve break in period

Discussion in 'Trumpet Discussion' started by bach37, Apr 13, 2012.

  1. Rusty_Restorer

    Rusty_Restorer Pianissimo User

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    I second that option for a dislike button. However, in our politically correct world - that would be flaming of a sort. I will not say I never flamed people - I attempt very much to be upbeat and not do that. For my prefinish coats on my guitars - I use 2000 grit wet sanding and then 3000 grit on the final coats. I spray 20 to 30 coats of lacquer on a guitar (with lots of thinner). I then very carefully use a 3000-4000 grit to hand finish the guitar after the guitar has had time to harden. My cars are a different story. I use 15-25 coats of primer - hand rubbed until all the low spots are filled. Then I use 3-5 coats of thinned top coat lacquer or newer modern product. This method is used for show cars and was used by Rolls Royce and other custom car builders in the 50's-60's. The cost to do these type of work is a paint job that cost 16k to 20k. Not what any large car maker does now.
     
  2. Bob Grier

    Bob Grier Forte User

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    back to breaking in the valves. First this assumes that you are playing at least an hour a day. before playing thoroughly oil valves. After playing wipe off valves and wipe out casings with a clean cotton cloth. Use a valve casing rod with a handkerchief for the casings. If you have some use Alyson solvent-cleaner use it on the pistons and casings. If not use valve oil. When you wipe them out/off you will see some black sludge. This is metal powder residue from the casings as the valves wear in. Clean until no residue is there. Do this every day or every other day. Continue until the day there is no black residue. If you don't do this the residue will cause uneven wear in the valves. They won't be as fast and as light as they should be. Also they won't leak air.
     
  3. veery715

    veery715 Utimate User

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    A perfectly smooth surface is not necessarily the best one for a lubricant to adhere to. Just sayin'.
     
  4. patkins

    patkins Forte User

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    I use Yamaha Clark's Viper oil on all my new trumpets. It has a mild detergent along with the synthetic oil. As a result it purportedly cleanses the valves as well as lubricating them. I do as Bob Grier suggests above and notice the dark metal that has essentially worn off. It was invented by a trumpet player and works good on breaking in period of trumpets. That is why Yamaha produces it. They are reknown for their innovations in trumpet making and their valves seem very tight. I like it, and I use it, on my new trumpets or those that seem to be sticking more than I like.
     
  5. bach37

    bach37 Pianissimo User

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    Very intriguing ideas. I know my own opinion on this topic and am very glad to hear your ideas.
     
  6. codyb226

    codyb226 Banned

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    Easy now Patrick. :troll:
     
  7. BrotherBACH

    BrotherBACH Piano User

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    I had a similar problem and the repair tech (who is so cool) said rather than paying me to "lap" them you could do it yourself. Spread toothpaste (yes, toothpaste) on the valves and slide it straight up and down 25 to 50 times and no more, also depends on how gritty it is. Toothpaste with baking soda added is grittier. The grittier the more towards 25 times only. Then stop clean and give a try with oil. Only go until movement is better not perfect. The concern is go too far.

    BB
     

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