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Old 04-19-2005, 02:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
TotalEclipse
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Machinability is not a problem and I wold also be using bar stock not existing balls.It might be because I have a fetish for stainless(mmmmmmmmm....shiny). If there is no major problem with using this material I think it will be SS.
I know the pricing for off the shelf dent balls is not too bad but by the time I get them shipped to OZ I can't justify the expense.
I should be able to knock up a dozen in about an hour so time is not a concern either(arn't CNC's wonderful)
I was thinking of using 3/8 unc/whit thread(trumpet sized balls)
What size increments would you recomend? I was thinking of 0.0025" steps.
If anyone has any photo's of other repair equipment they have made/bought it would be great.
So far I have made some bell mandrells to suit my Getzen, conn and ambassadoor.
some leadpipe mandrells and I'm making a work jig for holding the trumpets by the bell(similar to the one from Votaw)
It's a hobby at the moment.
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Old 04-26-2005, 05:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
Robert Rowe
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I have an incomplete set of the machine-steel (non-stainless) balls. They work just fine. They can look real good just with regular use and an occasional touch-up on the buffing wheel, followed by a wipe with an oily rag.

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Old 04-27-2005, 12:12 PM   #13 (permalink)
TotalEclipse
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Robert, do you happen to know what the size increment for your dent balls are?
Most I have seen have been in 0.005" steps
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Old 04-27-2005, 01:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old geezer
I am not a trumpet tech, but I am a machine repairman. I would stay away from stainless. I have friends that build street rods and show bikes and every time they have used stainless bolts or nuts [because you can polish them and make it look like chrome],the bolts and nuts if put under any strss at all, the threads stretch and the bolts deform. Stainless is not a strong metal like most people think so I personally would go with hardened steel. If a qualified horn tech has better info please post, I do not want to miss lead anyone. also there are many grades of stainless and some stainless even rusts. old geezer Dave
While I tend to agree that for dent balls, stainless is going to be plenty hard and tough, I also agree that in some applications, stainless is not the "best" steel for the job. I have a mild interest in knives and cutlery, specifically tactical knives and tactical folding knives, and while most of these knives are offered with a stainless steel of some kind, (AUS8, ATS 34) when looking at it from a "how good of an edge can I put on it and how long will it last" perspective, it seems like carbon steel and D2 (tool) steel is hard to beat - at least from what I have read.

Case in point, the KaBar military fighting knife is good ol' carbon steel with an epoxy powder coating to protect it from rust. The edge will rust, but the rest won't, and it's edge taking and holding properties are far superior to any stainless out there.

Back to the subject, (sorry to hijack the thread) what about using D2 tool steel? Now THOSE (dent) balls would be tough! Unfortunately, they would also be a bear to fabricate from bar stock due to the hardness of the steel and having to use high priced carbide cutting tools.

Stainless is probably your best choice - they should be more than hard enough, and they won't corrode or pit.
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Old 04-27-2005, 04:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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For damo_4701 --

I am away (about 350 miles) from my home & shop, out on Eastern Long Island (New York) for a few days, on business.
When I return home I'll take a look & measure the dent ball increments.

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Robert Rowe
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Old 05-09-2005, 08:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
Robert Rowe
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Dent Balls

Checking on the set of dent balls I have (set of 101, and I'm missing 5-or-6 of them) ... they are graduated in size from .250" (6.35mm) thru .750" (19.05mm), in .005" (.127mm) steps.

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