Tootsall

Distance is relative: my daughter travels 100 miles each way on Monday nights to rehearse with our "local" symphony. If they get their noses into a bucket of beer after symphony then she'll stay over and head back to her home at 6 am the next morning to be there in time for her first students.

While living in Toronto I had relatives visit from Holland. One day they asked if they could borrow one of the cars because they wanted "to go to New York City" for the day!!!! I sat them down and reviewed the scale on the map they were looking at..... they decided against it.

Happy Canuck

Ed, reminds me of a US travel agency that was used for a sales meeting by a company I worked for.

The meeting was in Orlando and they asked the guys from Vancouver if they would drive to Calgary to get a cheaper flight! After they were told to look at a map and understand that it is a 12 hour drive, they flew them out of Vancouver.

__________________
Bill

Olds Ambassador, Special, Super, Recording, Mendez Bb trumpets, Custom C trumpet/GR Butcher 65.6M
Olds Opera & Ambassador A6 Shepherds Crook cornets/Sparx 4B
Olds L-12 Flugelhorn/GR Butcher 65.6FL
Schilke MII Trumpet/GR Butcher 65.6M
If you have an Olds, go to http://www.theoldsregister.com/ and add data

Tootsall

The guys from Vancouver missed their chance, Bill. I'd have said "Yes, we'll drive from Vancouver to Calgary.... have to stay overnight in Banff though". Then drive all day to Banff, stay at the Banff Springs, get in a round of golf and finish off with the hour and a half into Calgary.

mike ansberry

Gilligan:

If you are talking about lapping the main tuning slide, I wouldn't. A slide that doesn't move freely has a problem that needs to be addressed. It probably has a dent or two in it (even small ones make a big difference) and it is probably out of round or out of alignment. I find that if I have all the dents out, use my expander tool to reround the outer ferrule, and align the inner and outer slides, the slide will work freely. In almost 30 years of repair work I have never lapped a tuning slide.

__________________
"Music is a fire in your belly that has to come out of your mouth, so you'd better put a horn in the way before someone gets hurt" (paraphrase of Bleeding Gums Murphy)

Hornman64

My buddy Lee Adams at trumpetchops.com has a secret formula. Give him shout for valve lapping.

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Play it with style.

TheMoose

Hi,

I agree, call Lee. I have heard some good things about the lapping compound he is using. I'm sending my old Yamaha to him soon to have some work done, I'll let you know how it comes out.

Bruce "The moose"

gzent

My brass tech uses Wenol - says its great. I've used it in
his shop myself and its good stuff. Check it out at:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/wen-y-376.html

or

http://www.wenol.com/

Greg

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Sympathy and trust abounding
No more falsehoods or derisions
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Mystic crystal revalation
And the mind's true liberation

vic

Hey, Tootsall--I need to follow up on a comment you made about your valve oil. What oil did you switch to and the valve spots did not return?

Last night my son brought in one of his new Lawler/Getzen valves which is starting to show the brown deposits. He has the same problem on his Getzen.

Is this the indication of some saliva characteristic I have read about?

Thanks in advance.

Vic

Tootsall

Vic... yes it very well could be. I was finding yellow/brown areas starting to form on the valves (mostly 2nd piston) on all of my horns within days of cleaning them. And I mean CLEANING. The best thing I found to take it off was something called "Lagostina" brand stainless steel pot cleaner. Kind of a fine powder used to get the "bright" polish back on stainless steel kitchen pots. I figured if it wouldn't damage the surface of a pot, then it was unlikely to hurt a piston but it DID take off the varnish. Problem was... within two weeks it was back again.

Somewhere I read an article that suggested that some oils (particularly those with parafin base or that possibly contained silicons) could react with some individuals' body chemistry and (especially in higher temperatures) form this sludgy, varnish. At that point I switched to Clark Viper oil. This worked great in my "new at the time" Schilke (tight valves) so I stuck with it until later on Zaja Blue (contains teflon particles) was recommended to me for use in a new Eclipse (also tight valves). I've used the Blue ever since but I do keep a bottle of the Viper around for when someone wants to try something different or runs out at band rehearsal.

It's been well over a year now since I went away from Cass and I've never had a recurrence of the problem. I haven't changed my practice nor playing habits a bit (if I'm thirsty, I take a drink.... not necessarily water) and I'm still playing the same horns so the only thing that changed was the oil.

Edit: just reread this and think I should clarify... the cleaning powder was ONLY used to remove those deposits..... no deposits, no need for the cleaner. Haven't had to use it since switching.

Gilligan

Zaja Blue is availible through:

Zaja Musical Products
PO Bx 262
Livingston NJ 07039
973-994-1902

Http://www.zajamusic.com