rowuk

I have been following the problem since the early 80's, but don't know of any list or serial number database.

Actually, if you have an older Yamaha horn and the valves are fine, it doesn't matter much what the material is. The Yamalloy problem showed itself very quickly with certain players and was a non-issue for everybody else. With proper cleaning and maintenance, you could probably make the valves out of any metal and get away with it.

For the Schilke and Yamaha players I have met with the issue, a synthetic valve oil has always solved the problem. I recommend synthetic anyway as it simply lasts longer. Petroleum based oils have to be reapplied daily if you want to keep the wear down.

If you have an old horn and the valves are worn, you could consider having them replated with something more "inert".

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Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again.

flugelgirl

I have a 70's Schilke MII, which is one of the intermediate models from the Schilke/Yamaha collaberation. According to Jim Donaldson's site, it's body chemistry that affects these valves, and some people have no problems. I certainly had no problems with this one - it plays pretty much like a B5, and I used it in situations that I feared for the life of the B6 I used to play. It felt very similar, but isn't quite as delicate. Check out the link.....
Miscellaneous

BTW, my MII will be up for sale soon - I sold the B6 a few years ago, but hadn't gotten around to getting rid of this one. Good horn for students - plays a lot like a Schilke without spending as much :) My husband told me I had to clean out the closets if I bought the V Raptor........

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Reeves V Raptor
Yamaha 8335RGM
50's Calicchio
Marcienkewicz Rembrandt flugel
Schilke P5-4
French Besson Classic C
Weril Regium Eb/D

bufallobiff

I have bought (for cheap) two Yamaha student horns, a trumpet and a cornet. Both had recalcitrant valves even after cleaning and oiling. I found that a light application of rubbing compound followed by a good spinning with a drill, while moving the piston up and down as in honong a cylinder, solved the problem without removing a lot of metal.

rowuk

It doesn't take much metal removal to give you leaky valves and rotating the piston with a drill is a sure way to introduce 10 years of wear in less than 5 minutes.

The valves do not wear evenly (we don't push them down straight) and that is why hand lapping is the best solution to repair sticky valves. Using a drill removes material where there is no problem........

Very often, looking at the valve shows us where it is binding, scratches or shiny spots are a sure sign.

If the horn plays OK, great, but I am sure there was an equally successful, less invasive solution!

__________________
Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again.