| Not to be a "dog-in-the-manger" but is that really wise? I wouldn't think that just because a valve hasn't started to get slow it means it doesn't need oil or isn't wearing! I'm sure we've all heard of "they who recommend spit" for lubricating their valves.
I also think it is important to differentiate between old or student-grade horns which have greater clearance than some of the newer instruments. You can probably get away with less oiling on a "sloppier" valve than a Bauerfeind, Schilke, new Yamaha, etc.
Personally I like the synthetic oils that contain PTFE (Teflon). Zaja Blue and Clark Viper Oil. The valves still get oiled every day.
PLEASE NOTE: I am most definitely NOT saying that there is anything wrong with Ken's "Ultra-Pure" nor that it is any less than what has been suggested ... it's just that I don't think it's wise to "see how far you can go on a tank of gas before you have to start walking" (you can clog up more jets and injectors that way!!!!). Valves are too dang expensive to run the kind of experiment that you see them doing with car engines on synthetic oil TV commercials! (This engine was running at 3,000 rpm and we drained all of the oil out of it and it continues to run fine!)
How about it, Ken (or any other valve oil rep who might be hanging about).... do you actually RECOMMEND that your customers run their horns until they start to slow down before reoiling? |