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rowuk · 11-29-2007, 04:16 AM

The issue of leaky valves is still VERY controversial. Many players actually prefer well broken in valves!

Regardless of wear, they should not stick and my first suggestion is to change valve oil brand. I use a synthetic oil (UltraPure now, LaTromba T2 earlier) on my 1911 Holton long cornet with valves so worn that you can really see the horizontal movement. They do not stick - ever. The same applies to other worn historic instruments!

Proper oiling could solve your problem: remove the valves, clean them and the valve block with a brush and some soapy water. Run a swab through the block and then wait until the valve and block are bone dry! Oil floats on water, so if the valves are moist, you will not get metal to metal lubrication (important). If you just oil on top of the old oil, you have the same issue with moisture AND the problem of dirt (metal and food particles as well as the aerosals from your breath) that collects in the oil. All you have done is to thin out the sludge.

While I think tight valves CAN be an advantage, the difference is not night and day AND regardless, the valves should not stick. Save your money until you can really afford the overhaul, or find something else new/used that is better.

11-29-2007, 04:16 AM	#3 (permalink)
rowuk Moderator Fortissimo User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Germany Posts: 4,367	Re: Problems with my horn The issue of leaky valves is still VERY controversial. Many players actually prefer well broken in valves! Regardless of wear, they should not stick and my first suggestion is to change valve oil brand. I use a synthetic oil (UltraPure now, LaTromba T2 earlier) on my 1911 Holton long cornet with valves so worn that you can really see the horizontal movement. They do not stick - ever. The same applies to other worn historic instruments! Proper oiling could solve your problem: remove the valves, clean them and the valve block with a brush and some soapy water. Run a swab through the block and then wait until the valve and block are bone dry! Oil floats on water, so if the valves are moist, you will not get metal to metal lubrication (important). If you just oil on top of the old oil, you have the same issue with moisture AND the problem of dirt (metal and food particles as well as the aerosals from your breath) that collects in the oil. All you have done is to thin out the sludge. While I think tight valves CAN be an advantage, the difference is not night and day AND regardless, the valves should not stick. Save your money until you can really afford the overhaul, or find something else new/used that is better. __________________ Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again.