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Trumpet Discussion Discuss Bach TR 300: quality and serial number? in the General forums; I just bought a Bach TR 300 for my 10 yo son, who has been learning to play the cornet, ...
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    Bach TR 300: quality and serial number?

    I just bought a Bach TR 300 for my 10 yo son, who has been learning to play the cornet, and now is going to play the trumpet.

    I was wondering if this is a good choice, considering that he is young, but he is not a beginner anymore.

    I also have a question regarding serial numbers: the seller says the number is C43102, but I cannot find any Bach serial numbers listing with letters, just numbers. I hope this is not a fake Bach ...http://www.trumpetmaster.com/vb/imag...s/icon_sad.gif

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    Re: Bach TR 300: quality and serial number?

    Yes, the Bach TR300 is a good horn for a young player. Its well made and sold by many of the good music stores.As far as the serial no is concerned...no idea, but if it says "Bach" on the belland the TR300 on the leadpipe your ok.
    Ken
    Lawler 21B-1
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    Re: Bach TR 300: quality and serial number?

    I had a similar experience when I went looking for the serial number on my TR300, B36081. It doesn't sound like Bach kept track of those at all, and I think the letters keep them separate from their higher-end models.

    I wouldn't worry. And mine, at least, is a big step up from what I had at 10!

    Enjoy!
    Simon St.Laurent
    http://simonstl.com
    Bach TR300 / 5C
    "Maestro" valve trombone
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    Pianissimo User Rushtucky's Avatar
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    Re: Bach TR 300: quality and serial number?

    This is an excellent trumpet for your son at this age. He will get a lot of mileage out of it if it is well taken care of. I have attach the handout that I give my students on the care and cleaning of the trumpet.

    Care and Cleaning of the Trumpet

    Trumpet Care
    To clean your horn you will need the following stuff:

    • A set of brushes; valve casing, mouthpiece, and a snake
    • A soft cloth to dry your horn
    • Valve oil and slide grease
    • Musical instrument soap (Lemon Joy works well)
    • A bath tub or a large tub to wash your horn in
    • About an hour of time for first timers

    To clean your horn, begin by removing the main tuning slides and the slides attached to the first, second and third valves. If any of these slides are stuck, do not use tools to force them off, this will only end up damaging your horn. Take the horn to your music teacher or the local music shop, they will have the necessary tools to remove the slide. Use a paper towel to remove all traces of slide grease from the slides and horn.
    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE READ THE NEXT STEP COMPLETELY!!

    Removing the valves for the first time is scary, but take your time and don't force anything and you and your horn will be fine. To remove the valves, begin by unscrewing the nut on the FIRST VALVE ONLY. SLOWLY pull the valve straight out HALF WAY. Look on the valve for a little 1 stamped on it (see picture). On a piece of paper, write down which way the number faces; to the left or to the right or straight ahead.
    It will be very important that you replace all valves in the correct direction. Next remove the other two valves. Notice that all the valves have their own number. Remember to write down which way the numbers face. Put the valves on a soft cloth somewhere safe.
    The last thing to come off are the caps on the bottom of the valve casings. Sometimes these can be really stuck. Remember, don't use any tools to take them off. If you can't get them off, don't worry about it. Leave them on for now, later you can take the horn to a music shop to have them loosened.
    Fill your bathtub with about 6 or 7 inches of lukewarm water, just enough to cover the horn when you put it in. Put a small amount of dish soap in the water and mix it up with your hand. Palmolive or Joy are best, the others may leave a film behind. Remember, only add one squirt of soap. For all you scientists, one squirt equals about 2 tablespoon.
    To clean your valves, place all three in a tall plastic cup. Fill the cup with just enough of the soapy water from the tub to cover the valves, but not any of the felt on the valves. Use your valve casing brush to clean the airways of the valve; let them soak.
    Put a large towel in the bottom of your bathtub to help keep the horn from getting scratched. Gently put the horn, slides, and mouthpiece into the water. Squirt a little soap on your valve casing brush and with your horn still underwater, SLOWLY and GENTLY brush out your valve casings. The valve casing is the hole where the valve was. Remember, this is a delicate part of your VERY expensive horn, so be gentle. Try to only brush up and down.

    Squirt some soap on the end of your snake and run it through the horn and slides. Don't try to force the snake around the small curves of the smaller slides cause it just ain't gonna work. Remember, you're cleaning a delicate instrument and not a bicycle. While you're at it give your mouthpiece a brushing too. Let all the pieces soak for a while if the horn is especially grungy.
    After you're satisfied that everything is clean, empty the water from the tub and refill it with fresh water. Take a plastic cup and pour fresh water into all the twists and turns of the horn and slides until all the soap is gone. After you're satisfied that all the soap is gone, lay the horn and pieces out on a dry, soft towel.
    Use the softest cloth you can find to gently wipe the water off the horn. Music shops sell special cloths that you should use, but if you can't get one you can use a really old, but clean T-shirt or flannel pajamas. Let the valves and valve casings air dry completely; this is very important for having fast valves.
    To put the horn back together, first grab the big slide. Put a small amount of slide grease on it and slowly slide it into the horn. Do the same thing with the other slides. If you forgot which slide goes where, remember that the biggest slide is the tuning slide, the next biggest goes in off the third valve, the smallest goes in off the second valve and the other slide goes in off the first valve. Sometimes those small tubes don't go on easily. To help, put a few drops of oil on the tube before you slide it in. The oil film also helps prevent corrosion, but be sure that all surfaces are free of water.
    Now comes the fun part. Find the valve marked 1. Squirt about 10 drops of valve oil on the valve and 10 drops down the first valve casing. We like to use a finger to rub the oil on the valve and interior casing just to be sure that oil is all over the piston. GENTLY AND SLOWLY slide the valve in.
    After the valve is in, slowly twist it and listen for a "click". Not all valves will "click", so if yours doesn't don't worry. Pull the valve back out until you see the little 1. With the little 1 pointing in the same direction it was when you first took it apart, slide the valve back in. Gently screw the valve nut back on. This should go on very easily so DON'T FORCE IT. Go through the same procedure with the other valves. Make sure to put the valve caps back on.
    After everything is back on, grab your mouthpiece and give your horn a blow. Does it work? Do all the notes come out easily? If not don't worry, you probably have a valve in wrong-no problem. Unscrew the valve nuts and make sure that all the valves are in the right holes. Also check to make sure that ALL the little numbers are facing in the same direction. Give it another try.
    Does it work? If not, the valves just aren't aligned right. Try this trick. Take off the second valve slide and unscrew the second valve nut. Now look into the holes where the slide was. Push the valve down and twist it until you see the holes in the valve align with the holes where the slide was (see picture). Now pull the valve straight out and look for the direction the little number is facing. Make sure all your valves face this direction. If nothing seems to work, just take the horn to your teacher or the music shop. They can fix it easily.

    So now you're done. Make sure to clean up the bathroom and put your oil and brushes back into your case. Remember, practice, practice, PRACTICE.


    As for the serial number, that is the series that was started after the Bach strike.
    "Rushtucky"
    Indianapolis, Indiana
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    Re: Bach TR 300: quality and serial number?

    I recommend a large enough plastic tub placed by the kitchen sink on the counter, instead of a bathtub; less kneeling and leaning. Your back will appreciate it.

    My sons tr300 serial # starts w/ a G. Plays great, too, I tried it once, I was very surprised.
    Last edited by Bachstul; 05-26-2009 at 12:28 AM.

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    Re: Bach TR 300: quality and serial number?

    I like the bathtub. I can take my trumpet out and put my dog in. Ahh, multi-tasking.

    I started playing trumpet when I was 10 and started on the TR300. It's a good starter trumpet.

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    Re: Bach TR 300: quality and serial number?

    Y'know,.. if your dogs' tail is long enough, you could use it on your trumpet to clean out...... oh never-mind!!!!

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    Re: Bach TR 300: quality and serial number?

    Thanks to everybody for your comments and advice. It is all ver useful.

    And I had a good laugh with the dog and its tail, and all !

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    Re: Bach TR 300: quality and serial number?

    I have the TR300, and I played it thru jr high and until my junior year when I got my Bach Strad. I really liked the tone I got from that horn, and the valves and over all response is great. I still use it for marching and pep band, but it could be used in any style of music. You got a good one on your hands

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