- - - - - - - - -
Selmer Invicta London ('56)
Olds Recording ('58, '59, '60)
Olds Super ('51, '63, '66, '67, '68, '69)
Olds Standard ('46)
Olds SuperStar ('71, '72)
Olds Studio ('55, '59, '70)
Olds Special ('51, '56, '58, '60, '62,'68,'73)
Olds Ambassador (a few: '49-'79)
Olds Flugelhorn ('70)
(+Eastman, Besson 609 , Conn Director, King Cleveland, Holton Collegiate, Blessing Accord,
Conn Severinsen, York, Yamaha, Getzen, Amati, Revelle, Bundy, Alcazar)
good luck ComeBackKid with your experiments....................................... ................
(it seems, that the valve mechanics -part of the tube- when the air column is vibrating, is acting differently)
I guess most of you are far better/sensitive players than I am. Except for the noise, I notice NO DIFFERENCE.
I have a rule of thumb on stuff like this: if my day to day consistency is WORSE than the supposed improvement, it ain't worth it. If my day to day consistency is BETTER, than the difference, then I do not need it.
It is cool to think about all of the things that could go wrong. As long as your faces are at the top of the list, your breathing at second place, body use 3rd and technique is 4th, then I guess there is room after that for heavy guides
Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again.
nice your writing/Wörterspiel
I am not thinking of getting a heavy-big sound with metal-guides or that my horn then will play alone..
I just want to try metal-guides to see, if I can improve the valve-mechanics
(maybe in the last overhaul - which cost me some money, just some weeks ago - the technician -maybe- did some (soldering) work with the valves inside, and this "nice- smooth-noiseless-nylon-guides" are now "deformed" ?)
(I live in Málaga and sending the horn back to the work-shop in Madrid cost me the same as some new metal ones)
¿ alles klar ?
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