tptgirl

I think this has probably been asked before, but what is the formula for homemade valve oil.
It is not that I have any problems with commercial valve oils, I just think it would be a fun project to make some of my own
Cheri

Vulgano Brother

Welcome to TM, tptgirl!

I like to use use lighter fluid on my valves; although it is very fast, it doesn't very last long.

If you want to get scientific about the whole thing, you'll be dealing with some sometimes pretty long, sometimes pretty volatile molecules that will shear when, among other things, the valve ports come cutting through the film that separates the valve from the casing.

You'll deal with friction, and valve tolerances that are scary tight. And, uhh, with organic polymers, cross-linking and such after exposure to that good 'ol caustic, oxygen.

The guys who sell valve oil, even the snake-oil purveyors, pretty much have their act together, though. If you can get some jet-fuel you'll be set.

I like lighter fluid. It is cheap, and it works on violas, too.

Welcome, Cheri!

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Sterling

I used to make valve oil out of Kerocine with a few drops of 3 in 1 oil per bottle. It worked well, but was kind of smelly. I also do not know of any potential health hazards involved. I used it from 6th grade throug graduate school and I'm relatively healthy.

tedh1951

I too used to use kerosene, but I ran it through a filter paper first. Kero in Australia has had some very nasty smelly stuff put into it in the last decade or so and it is very unpalatable so no more kero for me. I tried AVTUR (Aviation Turbine Fuel or Jet fuel) and it reminded me of work, which spoiled my trumpet playing. It also appears that many people are allergic to unburnt aviation fuel (including me) so no more Jet A1 for me. It should be noted that kerosene is an abrasive, so I guess it will eventually play havoc with your valve clearances. I tried the oil that Getzen and Weril supply with their instruments when new, the Getzen stuff works pretty well but the Weril oil is just a bit "gluggy". So I have settled, after some experimentation, on Al Cass' FAST Oil - does the job, keeps the valves fast, last a reasonable length of time, doesn't smell or stain.

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Ted

brem

I hope you don't smoke during a gig. It would be hazardous ! :)

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brem
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NYTC Stage 1 California Light - Schilke 15B mpc
Bach Stradivarius Bb Model 37 * #124xxx (circa 1975) - Schilke 15B mpc
Yamaha YFH-731 Flugelhorn #000xxx - Yamaha 14F4-GP mpc

bagmangood

who hasn't dreamed of turning a trumpet into a flame thrower

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Sterling

Forgot about straining kerosene through filter paper. Yep, I did that also.

Mark Bradley

This has been discussed ad nauseam in some other venues but what does indeed work pretty well is Ultra Pure Lamp Oil. The price is definitely right, nice to have around if the power goes out a well. Not to be confused with the excellent valve oil called Ultra Pure Valve Oil. This stuff works OK as it is, but if you wanted to play the mad scientist I'm sure you could find some additives to make it work even better (bourbon might be a start):

Ultra-Pure Clear Lamp Oil. 22 oz bottle - Camping World

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rowuk

I won't use anything except real valve oil. The function of the oil is to lubricate and I am convinced that is not what oils intended for burning are good at. I no longer use Al Cass as it only lubricates for about 12 hours then the lubricating stuff has evaporated. I have had the best results with La Tromba T2 synthetic. It lasts about a week and does not stick if the trumpet is in the case for a month or so (I do not play all of my trumpets regularly). Ultra Pure works great if you are playing the horn daily.

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tedh1951

More food for thought - many thanks. (Thinks: what do I now do with 5 bottles of FAST Oil purchased cheaply on eBay? It's $12-15 a bottle here in Oz.)

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Ted