silverstar

I have a Benge 3X that has valves in terrible need of re-lapping and re-honing. It also needs a new leadpipe because it has a bad case of red rot.

My dad and I have done some research and it seems that to get this thing fixed is going to be lots of money. Is it really worth it?

Lara

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email: Lara.Shema@gmail.com
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Schwab

I played a Burbank Benge 3X for about a year that I bought on ebay for about $800. They are really great horns, you can probably buy a LA 3X for much less than that. It would probably be more cost effective to buy a horn that doesn't need so much work and try to sell the one you have.

Don't take my opinion as the end all though. Maybe you should just try some thicker valve oil, that is a super cheap solution for the valve problems, Hetman makes some thick oil.

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Dylan Schwab
Stage 1 New York

MUSICandCHARACTER

Lara,

I doubt it is worth fixing unless you just love the horn. Red rot on the leadpipe may be an indication of red rot in other places of the horn.

As a Kanstul salesperson I am going to recommend a Kanstul product.

The Chicago Series. Zig Kanstul worked with Eldon Benge at one time ... the Chicago Series is based on the Chicago Benge Trumpets. Besides being outstanding horns, the price is reasonable.

Jim

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Dr. Jim Fox
Licensed Mental Health Therapist
Mouthpiece chart: www.ibowtie.com/tmptmpccharts.html

felix c

Hi Lara;
Benge needs a lot of work. It can between 200-300 dollars. The best people to repair that its Kanstul In California. If you feel very happy with your Yammie, and the Benge does not have for example sentimental value, consider to sell it. If this horn its a Los Angeles model consider that if you repair it The most high price you can sell its in the 500-600 range. If a Burbank in the 650-750 range. If a Chicago consider to repair and keep it. If a UMI a lead pipe only cost 45-65 dollars plus the labor. consider to not invest on it. I hope this help. Best wishes

www.kanstul.com

silverstar

Thanks!

The problem with the valves is that they are grinding against the casings. I can actually hear it if I try to play the horn. I've tried valve oil and it just doesn't work.

I was thinking about using it as my marching horn and selling the two other student horns I have, but seeing as the student horns work better than the Benge at this point, I don't know what I'm going to do.

I'm not looking for a new horn since I just got a Xeno for Christmas.

Lara

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Tootsall

Are you certain that it is the valves grinding against the casing and not:

a) the springs rubbing the upper casing (replace springs)
b) the valve guide rubbing on the spring cage, (replace guides) or
c) the valve stem rubbing against the upper valve cap? (get valve stem "unbent")

Is it on all of the valves or only one? How is the overall compression of the horn? Do the valves wiggle from side to side?

You may also have a very small burr or nick where one or more of the slide ferrules is soldered through into the valve casing itself. I still don't know how it happened but my Schilke once had exactly that happen to it (most likely was misuse of a cleaning snake). I could see the mark or scratch starting to form on the valve piston at the exact same location and was able to reach down the valve casing and remove the offending burr myself but wouldn't recommend trying this yourself if that IS the problem. If this is all it is, a serviceperson could do the job right quick for you for low $$.

I'd let them take a look at it anyway before I made any hard and fast decisions on dumping the horn.

bandman

Ebay

no further words need be written!

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