Veronicas_dad

My current trumpet was manufactured before I was (Beuscher trumpet manufactured around 1955). When I purchased my current horn, I got to choose between #1 or #2 - that's all the local music store had. I'm looking at some new horns but I'm having difficulty finding out what some of the differences are.
Silver vs. Lacquer vs. Sand Blast
Reversed Lead Pipe vs. Regular Lead Pipe
Weighted Valve Caps vs. Regular Valve Caps
Heavyweight Trumpet vs. Lightweight Trumpet

I currently play lead in a Swing Band and with a Rock/Country band. Any Ideas or suggestions?

Vulgano Brother

Wow! In some areas, you're asking us what our favorite colors are and why -- don't be surprised if you get a whole bunch of different answers!

Finish -- Silver tends to last longer than lacquer, and the silver plate finish holds up to repair work involving heat and hammers better than lacquer does. The sand-blast finish was popular way before you were born, and came back I believe, due to Dave Monette's manufacture of non-polished trumpets.

Leadpipe -- Conventional wisdom is the shorter the leadpipe, the more centered the sound, a longer leadpipe offers more control.

The weighted valve caps may or may not make a difference on a particular horn that the player likes. The heavier caps are supposed to help slotting and darken the sound -- on some horns that translates into a deader sound, and less efficiency when playing.

Heavyweight vs Lightweight design. Not a jazz/classical issue at all, the heavier horns promise added stability, the lighter horns quicker response. Great instruments will have both these qualities, regardless of construction.

Hope this helps, I'm sure there's a lot more information on the way!
Have fun!

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Stile442

I'll throw my .02 in.......if I'm mistaken please correct me (still learnin here )

OK here it goes....

As far as the finish goes ie silver, sandblast, lacquer, the finish does not make any significant change to the sound of the horn. Go with what you like to look at.

Reversed lead-pipes offer less restricted airflow to the valve casing by eliminating the ridge that exists where a standard lead-pipe connects to the tuning slide. Some players prefer the resistance of the standard. Try them both and decide what plays better for you.

The weighted valve-caps add mass to the horn and help to stabilize the sound core by reducing unnessesary vibrations. Mostly used by orchestral players though some jazz players like them as well. I would suggest buying a horn with standard caps and then getting a set of weighted. That way you can decide which you prefer.

Heavyweight vs. Lightweight horns-The heavier horns tend to have a darker more solid sound. The lighter weight ones will tend to have a brighter sound and really sizzle when pushed.

Information is always good when shopping for a new horn but remember.....It all comes down to what makes you sound your best!!

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Solar Bell

Remember that silver will tarnish.

A shotblast silver finish is difficult to keep clean, you cannot use polish on it as that will remove the satin or beadblast finish.

I think a beadblast is best in gold plate.

-cw-

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Chuck Willard
The Willard of Oz

"Don't be afraid to see what you see."
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Tootsall

For an interesting summary of the effects of finish on the sound check out what's at the Eclipse website Eclipse Trumpets .

Once there you will be undoubtedly drawn into the topic of bell MATERIAL which has a far greater effect on sound than the finish.

What one person finds pleasant to their ears another might find raucous, mellow, or whatever; the only REAL way to tell for certain is to A/B test the different designs for yourself and see what feels and sounds best to YOU.

rowuk

Hey Daddy,
what should the new horn do that the old one doesn't?
After playing a horn for that many years, you get accustomed to the response and color of the sound.
Most all of the options that you mention are found on horns that are suitable for what you play (except maybe for a heavyweight lead trumpet - I wouldn't personally do that).
The problem with commenting is that you have forgotton to mention the 10,000 other factors that need to be balanced with the ones that you mentioned to make a trumpet "great".
Basically, you just need to start trying things out and forget about the design and color. There are just too many good horns out there! Play everything that you can. The right horn will jump up and say "buy me"!

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Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again.

Vulgano Brother

You can tell by his singature picture that Chuck tried to polish his bell once!

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Tootsall

And I used to think that the late departed Doctor of something-or-other from Morehead was a wordsmith!


Hat's off to ya, VB.

Vulgano Brother

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veery715

Not mentioned is that the sound you hear behind the horn is likely different from the sound heard out in front so you need to find a way (recording, another player) to audition them from the audience point of earshot, if that is a concern for you.

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Music = Love

Trumpets:
Lawler Bb / Olds Recording / Schilke B2
Selmer Rad 2 / Yamaha 8310Z
Holton MF ST 550S / Stage 1 California C
Easyplay mini-trumpet (????) / Chinese Special / Benetone
1934 Cleveland (HN White) 603 Silver Plate w/ Gold Bell

Kanstul ZKT 1525 Flugelhorn

Cornets:
Conn 36A / King Super 20 Master
Olds Ambassador / Conn 18A
King HN White 1904 Bb+A / Ohio Regent Soloist

Conn 16E Eb/F Mellophone

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