crowmadic

What do TM-ers recommend for cleaning the inside valve casings before introducing a newly oiled valve?

rowuk

Dishwashing liquid and a stiff brush (non-metallic bristles, please!) of sufficient diameter. Then rinse, let dry and reassemble. When I reoil, I run a piece of leather Chamois through first to get the "sludge" out.

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Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again.

crowmadic

rowuk,
The stiff brush and leather Chamois sounds good but I am a bit surprise. I thought a more delicate approach would be in order. Let me tell you what I've been using. I have soft cotton cloths for wiping, and I use a 410 gauge 100% wool bore mop used for the brass core of guns. I don't own any weapons but I bought the kit with rod and all. I don't see that it is any better or worse than the Chamois and brush...OR IS IT?

Vulgano Brother

Valve casings are pretty delicate, and the valves get pushed by some pretty wimpy fingers and springs -- compare that to an explosive charge at the non-business end of a bullet. I have small fingers, so I use those instead of chamois.

Try rubbing one half of your forehead with chamois and the other half with your wool mop. If they feel about the same, the mop should be ok, unless it leaves any threads behind.

Have fun, and don't forget that trumpet mutilation can be fun.

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Tootsall

I would never use steel wool of any grade or description; it is entirely too possible to leave "bits" of the steel wool behind (which jams valves... one of your problems I believe?) to say nothing of the damage to the internal bore of the casing.

I like Rowuk's idea of using a chamois cloth for a "wipedown" between main cleaning. It won't leave any lint behind and will absorb the old oil and water that might be there.

Solar Bell

WHOA NELLIE!!!!!!!

Do NOT use ANY steel wool, no matter how fine it is!!!!

-cw-

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Chuck Willard
The Willard of Oz

"Don't be afraid to see what you see."
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jackboyko

Hi, take each valve out and wash, and scrub them, If you have a "valve" type thing with Mouthwash. It will clean the valves and kill any germs that might have fessted in your horn. Putting soap in you horn is like puting it in your mouth, Eccch. I have posted before on this, the acid in any soap is not so good for the metal it comes in contact with. Go with the mouthwash (foaming type is best) any you will keep the horn fresh, and clean. As always, Cheers; Jack Boyko

rowuk

UM,
most dishwashing liquids that I have seen and use are Ph neutral - the flavouring found in mouthwash may leave residue, and at least the ingredients on the mouthwash I use advertise benzoic acid........
I will stick with dishwashing liquid and a good rinse or two.
The stiff brush that I use has nylon bristles and I scrubbed a piece of brass first to see if it scratches - it didn't. I have a different size one for the leadpipe.

__________________
Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again.

crowmadic

"WHOA NELLIE!!!" Is right! What gave you guys the idea that I was using STEEL WOOL to clean any internal parts of my horn? I'm not that stupid! Although, the finest steel wool gives a nice look to those lacqure deficient ebay horns. The wool mop I speak of is quite soft, check it out. Never-the-less, I'm going to get me a new chamois cloth and explore it's benefits. Youngsters, don't go steel wooling your trumpet unless your daddy approves.............crow

bilboinsa

I have a 1927 22B, and when I clean it I do clean out the casings as well. I use brass savers and warm soapy water. FWIW, my drying technique usually involves shaking and then using my wife's blow dryer to air dry everything before oiling.

__________________
Doug Walsdorf

Schilke B2
Kanstul 1525
1927 Conn 22B New York Symphony

"In a hole in the ground there lived a hobbit. Not a nasty, dirty, wet hole, filled with the ends of worms and an oozy smell, nor yet a dry, bare, sandy hole with nothing in it to sit down on or to eat: it was a hobbit-hole, and that means comfort."