ilikethetrumpet

I read something by Schilke awhile back from the instrumentalist off the Schilke loyalist page, called "Practical Physics for Trumpet Players."

It is not conventional wisdom, perhaps, but I tried it today: oiling the leadpipe rather than the valves. I have tight Schilke valves (and my flugel has tight kanstul valves) that are hard to get back in place without much cussing and strife. I don't know, does anybody else put this into practice? Interesting. Are there drawbacks, other than an offensive smell for breathing occasionally? Within five minutes, my sticky valves werereally humming.

Here's Schilke's paragraph:
"I recommend oiling the valves by putting the oil into the leadpipe (rather than directly on the valves) and allowing it to work its way through the instrument. Because the inside is coated with oil, erosion of the metal is stopped and food particles are easy to flush out once a week. Just run warm water through and every particle of dirt will come out easily. Also the valves stay lubricated all day because the oil continues to run down into that area. I see many instruments with tiny holes starting to appear in the mouthpipe--the first sign of erosion. Anyone who uses this method of oiling can keep his instrument for a hundred years without having it wear out.
"

http://www.dallasmusic.org/schilke/P...20Physics.html

Dale Proctor

It's a great way to stop leadpipe corrosion, but I don't think it's the best way to oil the valves. The oil enters the bottom part of the valve casing, leaving the top half of the valve dry. I use this technique to oil the rotary valves on a 130 year old cornet I have, because otherwise, the entire valve and string linkage assembly would have to be dismantled every time I oiled them. I also drop oil down each valve slide while working the valve. In a piston valve horn, I'd remove the valves for oiling. Of course to clean them, you must remove the valves anyway.

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gzent

Leadpipes are much easier and cheaper to replace than valves.

I wouldn't risk putting more particles through the horn by oiling them in that manner. The best thing to put on the valves is pure oil. When you run it through a slide or leadpipe first it will pick up some grime and water and whaterever else you might have been drinking - that can't be a good thing.

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VINTAGEBRASS

I have used this method for over 20 years and have never had a problem with my valves resulting from this. It also will provide oil to the first and third slides, keeping them free moving.

gzent

For the 5 or 10% of people who keep their leadpipes clean, then I agree, its not a problem. For the vast majority of players, their leadpipes are disgusting and I say its a bad idea.

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Tootsall

I wouldn't be afraid of putting bit of oil through the leadpipe.. but only to protect the leadpipe. Blowing the oil too hard in an effort to also "oil the valves" is more likely, in my opinion, to force bits of "junk" from the tubing into the valves themselves. Much better to pull the valves and oil them the "regular" way.

Vulgano Brother

Sooner or later, any gunk in the leadpipe will make its way to the valves with our without oil. On a "clean" horn, the oil in the leadpipe does help protect against red-rot and other nasty spit-induced pitting. As an added bonus, you get a nice fat splat when you empty your spit valve!

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mahaberio

For another take on it, John Hagstrom told a group of us in a master class that this is a good thing to do when you have to come in very quietly. Try it some time, it really works.

tpter1

Interesting. I've never done it, but have heard other repair people recommend placing a drop or 2 in the leadpipe to prevent corrosion; never as a method of oiling or aiding in a soft entrance, however.

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rowuk

I remember reading an article on the Schilke loyalist about the tolerances on Schilke valves. If in fact the valves are so very "tight", oiling them without damage is an issue.
One thing is very clear to me however, oil floats on water, if there is any moisture in the horn, the oil will not properly "coat" the metal regardless if it is a leadpipe or valve. This will lead to premature wear.
I disassemble my horns, clean them and when they are bone dry, apply oil directly to the surfaces (I have a cleaning brush from an alto recorder to oil my leadpipes).
I know that some oils have additives to bind the water - I then have oil with superior lubricating qualities mixed with dirty water particles - sounds like a great plan.......... I think my way works better.

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