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Old 02-06-2008, 12:30 AM   #1
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Sharp first valve

I have a schilke B5 and when i play an E, F, or A, it's really sharp. I've learned to drop my jaw and it plays in tune, but out of curiosity, has anyone else had any issues with schilkes and intonation?
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Old 02-06-2008, 12:34 AM   #2
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Re: Sharp first valve

the thing is.. when i tried it out when i was ready to buy, i didn't hear it. weird... i guess it was just cuz i was playing with myself, not anyone else
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Old 02-06-2008, 07:06 AM   #3
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Re: Sharp first valve

E and A make sense. If you just push the first and second valve down they will be too high. It has to do with the proportions of the trumpet. If each valve is perfectly in tune alone (for a trumpet in Bb for instance), they will be too high in combination.
When I push the first valve down, the trumpet is no longer in Bb, it is a hole step lower (in Ab). The second valve for an Ab trumpet has to be longer.
That is why the Schilke has a saddle on the first valve slide.
If your F is too high, it is most likely a tension issue. Practice using the slides. Your sound will be much more centered and resonant!
Trumpets that slot well show the intonation issues more quickly. Instruments that do not slot as well feel better in tune, but get you tired more quickly. USE THOSE SLIDES!!!!!!!
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Old 02-06-2008, 12:28 PM   #4
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Re: Sharp first valve

Rowuk is spot on! The fingering for low c# is not 123, but 123+slide. Likewise, the fingering for low d (and low g on my Schilke) is not 13, but 13+slide. The fingering for a is not 12, but 12+slide.

Adding the first valve slide to our repertoire allows us to be twice as good in tune!
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Old 02-06-2008, 12:30 PM   #5
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Re: Sharp first valve

Is there a fingering chart somewhere that includes the slides? I have to be honest and say I never learned to use them ...
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Old 02-06-2008, 01:38 PM   #6
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Re: Sharp first valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by misty.sj View Post
Is there a fingering chart somewhere that includes the slides? I have to be honest and say I never learned to use them ...
Whatever notes need them
Most combinations that include 3rd valve need them (other than 2&3 which usually are in tune), 1&2 are often sharp, and F at the top of the staff (depending on the horn). There are some other notes depending on the particulars of the horn
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:07 PM   #7
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Re: Sharp first valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by bagmangood View Post
Most combinations that include 3rd valve need them (other than 2&3 which usually are in tune), 1&2 are often sharp, and F at the top of the staff (depending on the horn). There are some other notes depending on the particulars of the horn
OK, so if I'm understanding you correctly, A-flat in the staff would NOT need the 3rd slide, A in the staff would need the first slide, and D right under the staff would need BOTH slides. Right? I can't How about C-sharp under the staff? Does it need both slides? I can't think of anything that uses the third valve on its own, so I guess you never need to kick out just the third slide, right?

Hmm. I tried kicking out both slides at once and I think that my hands are really too small for that.
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:44 PM   #8
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Re: Sharp first valve

Personally, I have never detected a difference between using either slide. I use whatever is better for my hands. On my Barrington, I use the thumb the saddle for whatever needs adjusting, as I found it causes less disruption to the horn position than extending the 3rd slide with my ring finger. On my old Besson that has no saddle, I have to use the 3rd valve ring. I had a couple of horns that had ist valve triggers that worked even better for me.

My vintage cornets and many other vintage horns had no 3rd or 1st slide adjustment and had an elongated 3rd slide, so you can "lip" whatever notes that are not in tune, as they are pretty close , anyway. The thing to do is to try to move the slide as smoothly as possible, to tune the note, so as to not to disturb what you are doing. That takes practice and familiarity with the horn's slide characteristics.
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Old 02-06-2008, 04:55 PM   #9
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Re: Sharp first valve

its the nature of the beast man.
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Old 02-06-2008, 05:18 PM   #10
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Re: Sharp first valve

I used the first slide on:

A (all)
E bottome of staff (on some horns)
C#/Db in staff
F top of staff.

Third slide:
low D
low C# (more than D)

Try a Db major arpeggio (from low Db up to high Ab) with and without the slides. You can bend the notes without the slides, but It'll be much easier with them and the notes will be more resonant.

The flat notes (D, Eb, E near the top of the staff) are a lot less troublesome if the notes around them are down where they belong!

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