gzent

1) Throw away Al Cass oil and never use it again!

2) Get the good stuff, Ultra Pure, Hetman, Clark's Viper oil are a few

3) Soak the piston up to top of contact area in pure alcohol for an hour

4) Soak the casings with an alcohol soaked rag stuffed inside

5) Remove pistons and dry with clean, lint free rag, same for casings

6) Oil casings and pistons with new oil and see how they work.

7) If sticking continues take your horn to a professional brass technician,
don't try to fix it yourself.

__________________
www.bethanybrass.com - Helping fellow trumpet players achieve musical excellence

Mamba21500

If you're using one of the cheaper Jupiters (like I do) it may be that you are merely applying sidewards pressure causing it to jam, make sure you are pressing straight down and not a bit to the side, if you are, enough people have already said what you should do ;) .

crazyandy88

The valve guides may also be the issue. These are the small plastic/brass pieces that fit into the slots in the casing. I had a sticky valves problem on my Taylor and new valves guides fixed it.

__________________
Andy Sites

kcmt01

I agree. My Bach Strad was really bad in all three valves, plus they even tarnished. I gently polished them with jeweler's rouge, changed to Blue Juice and the problem was solved. Maybe Al Cass oil works for some, but not for me.

MTROSTER

I had a similar problem when I started using Al Cass oil. No amount of cleaning would help. I noticed that the pistons were forming areas in which a lacquer-like substance was being formed on the surface. I switched to Yamaha oil and the problem disappeared. Perhaps there is something as regards pH changes that causes these changes in certain people. Just try switching oils before taking drastic action.

guitarsrmine

Thanks for all of the advice, fellow trumpeters. I've always ahd good results wh the Cass, but at this point, I'm ready to try the Ultra Pure. I'll let all of youkno how it works

walldaja

I've had that problem with mine too and was told by a repairman that the tolerances were quite close and the least amount of dirt would cause a problem. He suggested I switch from Al Cass to "Space Filler Ultimate II for tight valves". That solved most of my problems; however, I still get a discoloration on the valves from time to time and until I clean that off they are unreliable. If I drag a fingernail across the discoloration I don't detect any noticeable depth to it but cleaning it off makes the valves work wonderful.

I've also started putting oil on my valves AFTER I play. That seems to keep the discoloration at bay a little too. My take is they like sitting in clean oil rather than spit--come to think of it, so would I!

jdizzle

I had the same issues on my Yamaha flugel and started using Zaja oil. Works great.

__________________
"If you don't hear it, it won't come out your horn."

ComeBackKid

Sorry that my suggestion of the magic marker didn't work out so here is something else to try. As Crazyandy88 suggested, sometimes the valve guide will become worn and will bind on the valve stem. But before you go to the expense of replacing the guides, try removing the valve and applying some slide grease on the valve stem so that the guide will ride up and down on a lubricated surface and see if that helps.

__________________
Come-Back Kid
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Selmer Invicta London (T)
Olds SuperStar (T)
Olds Super (2T)
Olds Special (2T+C)
Olds Ambassador (9T+7C)
Andreas Eastman (2T)
Conn Director (T+C)
King Cleveland Superior (T+C)
Holton (T602+C605 Shep Crk)
Holton Collegiate (T+C)
Blessing (T+C)
Yamaha (T+C)
Getzen 300
Amati ATR213
(+Revelle, Bundy, Alcazar, & ?)

mike ansberry

Okay, here's the deal with Jupiter valves. (if this is an older Jupiter) Jupiter used to put monel valves in their trumpets. They had serious problems. (like a lot of other brands with Monel valves) Many of us complained, so Jupiter did something about it. They went to nickel plated valves. It was a step in the right direction, but the valves still didn't feel great. Now they've gone to stainless steel valves in their beginner horns. I have had no problems at all with them since this change. Check your leadpipe. If the model number has an M ant the end, they have monel valves. If it has an N they are nickel. Jupiter will probably send you a new set of stainless valves for the horn for free. They have replaced all my schools valves with stainless for free.

I like the Jupiter company!

Mike

__________________
"Music is a fire in your belly that has to come out of your mouth, so you'd better put a horn in the way before someone gets hurt" (paraphrase of Bleeding Gums Murphy)

Eclipse MR in scratch gold
Olds Super/Ultrasonic
Conn 40B
Leblanc Paris large bore with Bach mouthpipe
Bach 37
Olds L-12 Flugel
Benge Picc
Buescher Cornet made in 1914
American Standard (King?) beginner trumpet (crap)

Willing to provide a good home for a stray Conn 48B or Olds Recording