smcmlln

I'm looking for someone that has any info on an Auto Crat Cornet. serial is 67957. I see no model number. The valves do have the same model number on them as well. Any Info would be great thanks.

smcmlln

MFfan

That design of cornet was common prior to the 50's, I believe. Several makers had model's with similar "wraps". There is no record of that name on Horn-u-copia but it is surely a "stencil" built to order by some manufacturer for a particular retailer to sell under that name. It may be impossible to accurately find the real maker. It has some design similarities to the Conn Pan American 80A, ( they made many stencils), and others.

I would judge it's age around 1930 or so from the "nipple" bottom caps on the valves , etc.
Maybe someone else has better info. Good luck!

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smcmlln

I have done some research and noticed that there where some autocrat trumpet mouthpieces that was forsale on ebay. It listed that John Grey was the maker. Their main specialty was drums, guitars, and banjos. Couldn't get much farther. One thing I did was I was trying to remove some of the grease buildup and tarnish that was on it, and I experimented with the second valve pipe. *it was a 15 dollar flea market buy*. It is dented and the lacquer has worn off. I had a solution of vinegar and salt I let it sit in. I let it sit for a long time. when I took it out of the solution, it isn't brass. its copper. But it polishes to a nice color. * Like the look of copper* so I'm going to try to remove all of the lacquer and soak the entire thing and see if I get the copper look all over. I think it would look nice if it is all copper and polished up and relacquered. With all of the dents removed. I wish I could cross reference some new valve bodys to get the pistons to put in this horn. Make it a Nice looker and player

ComeBackKid

Do a search on this forum for threads related to aluminum foil and baking soda baths. That may work better than vinegar and salt as it is not acidic and uses electrolysis to turn the tarnish back into the base metal (brass or copper) rather than removing the metal. Also, Tarn-X seems to do something similar - that is brighten the metal without removing it. But, be sure when you use Tarn-X to wash it off after a few minutes. It will be interesting to see what this looks like when cleaned up a bit.

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VetPsychWars

Looks like a Bohemia/Czech import from the 20s or 30s.

You'd have to get the existing valves rebuilt, you won't be able to find newer pistons.

Tom

smcmlln

well, I know it is not an import, it has usa below the Auto Crat on the bell. i"ve tried the baking soda and foil bath. It worked good for my mouthpiece, since it was black. But didn't do much for the horn. Not sure why. It just stayed dull. When left in the acid bath, I liked the look of the reddish copper look. I love the color, when I was in school playing the horn player next to me had a yamaha horn that had a rose brass or copper colored lead pipe. and I always liked the way it looked. *not really sure if the coloring would look good with a guy though. But about the bath, I will say the acid bath did alot better I noticed that when I droped a small bit of it on the valve body, It lighted up instantly. I could see where it was. But it remained dull. I will say that the second valve on the bottom, is pretty mawed up. there is a extremely small leak on the first and second valve. I"m going to try to use a heavier oil on it. And not sure if it is enough to make a difference, but what I did was take the slide on the bell end off and put my finger on the hole and blew into the horn with some good amount of pressure. the Mawed part on the second valve *i think* doesn't affect the movement or the air pressure. That is why I want to look for another valve for it. But I guess that since it leaks under a big amount of pressure, I guess it would be okay to play.

VetPsychWars

Well, then! USA it is.

It might never be polished. It might be a satin finish.

Tom

smcmlln

It has lacquer that is still shiny on it, but 90% of it has worn off.

ComeBackKid

If there is still lacquer on part of the horn, it is unlikely that the baking soda and aluminum foil bath did its job. In every case that I have done it, all of the lacquer has been removed. But, I use boiling water and that is what does the lacquer removal trick - in addition to making the reaction more active. Also, that technique does not make the brass shiny. I had to hand polish it with rubbing compound followed by automotive cleaner/wax. If you have some really discolored areas, Brasso will help. Some avoid Brasso feeling that it is too abrasive but since the horn will require polishing anyway, that doesn't matter and Brasso is more aggressive on the tough areas. I have actually used fine-grit sandpaper (600 or so) on some areas to remove pitting and other bad spots. The marks from the sandpaper will polish out with no problems.

As far as the valves so, it sounds like the compression (actually - "sealing") is OK based on your leak-down test. To help with the oil issue, you might try some teflon-based treatment. It is used on guns and can be bought at sporting goods stores that sell shooting supplies. It supposedly seals the valves and reduces friction. There are posts here related to that topic.

__________________
Come-Back Kid
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Selmer Invicta London (T)
Olds SuperStar (T)
Olds Super (2T)
Olds Special (2T+C)
Olds Ambassador (9T+7C)
Andreas Eastman (2T)
Conn Director (T+C)
King Cleveland Superior (T+C)
Holton (T602+C605 Shep Crk)
Holton Collegiate (T+C)
Blessing (T+C)
Yamaha (T+C)
Getzen 300
Amati ATR213
(+Revelle, Bundy, Alcazar, & ?)