daystar297

Sorry ... but I thought gleaning information and advice here in this forum was part of research ....

__________________
I just got a gig playing 3rd trumpet in a duet ....

Dorabil

I apologize if this comes out twice, but I got a blank page when I hit submit.

Try Simichrome polish. It's a polishing paste. I use it all the time and love it. It will make your silver mouthpiece look like new for sure. As with anything new, use caution and try it on your horn somewhere it won't show but I've not had a problem on my silver.
Dottie

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Dottie
Yamaha 2330S Cornet
Holton C602 Cornet
1920 Conn Folded Coach Horn
1920 Conn Bugle
1985 Osmun Coach Horn

RHSbigbluemarchingband

ted, this, like daystar said, is my research. I was going to post an entirely new thread actually, but I used the search feature, trying to find information, and I found some information in this thread, so I figured I would add on to it, and pose the two questions I had, if thats okay with you. And through my research (which i didn't do) I was reading an article saying that through the process, the silver might not have as much protection, after the sodium bicarbonate process, and might tarnish quickly after cleaning. This was an article about the process and silverware, explaining in depth all the chemical reasonings behind using this process instead of silver polish, but is this the truth with silver plated horns? (that the tarnish might come back quicker)

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?1975 Bb Beuscher Aristocrat
1970 Bb Bach Strad 37
Bb Dynasty Marching Trumpet 010-M503
Beuscher 7c MP
Bach 3c MP

tedh1951

Dear All,

I aplogise for shouting but please note there are lots and lots of posts on this subject search by tedh1951 or rowuk or bear or sofus or cleaning. There is an immense amount of discussion on the subject - so once again my entreaty to you all is to attempt a little research here on TM.

__________________
.
Ted

kcmt01

OOOhhhhh...KKayyy..... First of all, your "aplogy" (sic) doesn't make any sense if you follow it up with a justification! All the new guy wanted was some information. You didn't even link the info he wanted. Don't be a pain.

Schwab

Relax everyone, this thread was pretty much wrapped up 2 weeks ago. The search function is a vastly underused tool.

__________________
Dylan Schwab
Stage 1 New York

ComeBackKid

That is true. But at the same time, as this thread illustrates, one must wade through a lot of 'BE' (a search will reference this) and a lot of questions in order to find a few nuggets of truth among the answers. At some point, it would be helpful to collect some of those nuggets - about any number of common topics here - and distill them into digestible form and make them a sticky with mandatory reading before posting more questions about that same topic. Of course, this idea is much better in theory than in practice. I have been working on such a project related to the topic of good practice regimens and it turns out to be much more difficult than I thought it would be. But - "real soon now"...

__________________
Come-Back Kid
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Selmer Invicta London (T)
Olds SuperStar (T)
Olds Super (2T)
Olds Special (2T+C)
Olds Ambassador (9T+7C)
Andreas Eastman (2T)
Conn Director (T+C)
King Cleveland Superior (T+C)
Holton (T602+C605 Shep Crk)
Holton Collegiate (T+C)
Blessing (T+C)
Yamaha (T+C)
Getzen 300
Amati ATR213
(+Revelle, Bundy, Alcazar, & ?)

DiaxII

Sorry for adding to a "banned ;)" thread but here is what I heard (actually read) regarding the electrolytic method (baking soda and foil) of turning the silver sulfide (tarnish) back into silver.
When this process is envolved it's true that the silver plate layer is not thinned like when silver polish is used but the restored silver is not as good and strong as it was before tarnishing. This will lead to faster tarnishing again as the restored silver is sort of porous. Therefore in that article it was recommended to polish the tarnish off.
I only speculate here but if you think there must be some downside even to the best method.
Maybe applying the electrolitic method and then polishing well enough will ensure longer tarnish-free life of the restored silver plate?

Also there is another possible problem to think of: the trumpet is held together by means of solder joints. When electrolytic method is used can it propagate galvanic corrosion in the solder joints where two different metals (solder and brass) meet?

tedh1951

A couple of technical thoughts on this - from the chart below - notice that brass, silver, and lead solder are all toward the middle of the Reaction Chart and are therefore relatively inactive - I don't think solder breakdown is a problem. Mind you if we were to make trumpets from aluminium (or aluminum) and then give them a bath, things might get intersting. We are dealing with galvanic potential here - I hope this helps.

Galvanic (corrosion) potential is a measure of how dissimilar metals will corrode when placed against each other in an assembly. Metals close to one another on the chart generally do not have a strong effect on one another, but the farther apart any two metals are separated, the stronger the corroding effect on the one higher in the list. This list represents the potential available to promote a corrosive reaction, however the actual corrosion in each application is difficult to predict. Typically, the presence of an electrolyte (eg. (salt) water) is necessary to promote galvanic (action) corrosion.
Electric current
flows from
plus to minusAnodic
(least noble)
Corroded
Direction
of attack

Cathodic
(most noble)
Protected
Magnesium
Magnesium Alloys
Zinc
Beryllium
Aluminum 1100, 3003, 3004, 5052, 6053
Cadmium
Aluminum 2017, 2024, 2117
Mild Steel 1018, Wrought Iron
HSLA Steel, Cast Iron
Chrome Iron (active)
430 Stainless (active)
302, 303, 321, 347, 410, 416 Stainless Steel(active)
Ni-Resist
316, 317 Stainless (active)
Carpenter 20Cb-3 Stainless (active)
Aluminum Bronze (CA687)
Hastelloy C(active) Inconel 625(active) Titanium(active)
Lead/Tin Solder
Lead
Tin
Inconel 600 (active)
Nickel (active)
60% Ni 15% Cr (active)
80% Ni 20% Cr (active)
Hastelloy B (active)
Naval Brass (CA464), Yellow Brass (CA268)
Red Brass (CA230), Admiralty Brass (CA443)
Copper (CA102)
Manganese Bronze(CA675), Tin Bronze(CA903, 905)
410, 416 Stainless(passive) Phosphor Bronze(CA521, 524)
Silicon Bronze (CA651, 655)
Nickel Silver (CA 732, 735, 745, 752, 754, 757, 765, 770, 794
Cupro Nickel 90-10
Cupro Nickel 80-20
430 Stainless (passive)
Cupro Nickel 70-30
Nickel Aluminum Bronze (CA630, 632)
Monel 400, K500
Silver Solder
Nickel (passive)
60% Ni 15% Cr (passive)
Iconel 600 (passive)
80% Ni 20% Cr (passive)
Chrome Iron (passive)
302, 303, 304, 321, 347 Stainless (passive)
316, 317 Stainless (passive)
Carpenter 20Cb-3 Stainless (passive), Incoloy 825 (passive)
Silver
Titanium (passive), Hastelloy C & C276 (passive)
Graphite
Zirconium
Gold
Platinum


Hmmmm, not quite as I expected - imagine the words to the right of the arrows, or maybe have a look at http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

__________________
.
Ted

ComeBackKid

Ted, great information. Thanks.

__________________
Come-Back Kid
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Selmer Invicta London (T)
Olds SuperStar (T)
Olds Super (2T)
Olds Special (2T+C)
Olds Ambassador (9T+7C)
Andreas Eastman (2T)
Conn Director (T+C)
King Cleveland Superior (T+C)
Holton (T602+C605 Shep Crk)
Holton Collegiate (T+C)
Blessing (T+C)
Yamaha (T+C)
Getzen 300
Amati ATR213
(+Revelle, Bundy, Alcazar, & ?)