t.luchies

Hi all. I must say I've thoroughly enjoyed reading through the various threads here over the past weeks, and wanted to save my first post for when I got my 'new' cornet in. That day is today, but the occasion is not quite so happy as I would have liked.

Because I'm a university student I was/am pretty limited financially, and after a month and a bit of searching, I finally found a cornet in my budget I thought I'd like to play, a 1973 Reynolds Medalist 284xxx. Unfortunately, as luck would have it, this cornet was not exactly as described + pictured on ebay (I looked everywhere, even in Toronto I came up empty).

Apart from an unmentioned patch, there's a crack the size and shape of a 'Y' in the leadpipe behind the pinky ring, and a bunch of orange/red and green/blue spots (redrot/corrosion, I'd guess).

Yet, it sounds great, even with my lips out of practice for a couple years, and the valves/slides are in good working order.

So I'm trying to make the best of a win/lose situation (I'm still REALLY excited that I finally have a vintage cornet - I hadn't touched one in 3 or 4 years). I realize cracks are usually killers, but my budget's gone on the cornet, so any suggestions on how to deal with the spots + crack, are EXTREMELY welcome.

Thanks everybody,
Tim

Eeviac

Aha EvilBay strikes again!

Pawnshops are your friend...... they really are.... in fact I'm going to prowl a few tomorrow.

Ex-powerseller with over 10,000 total feedback sayin', Stay Away from the 'bay!

Cornet1

Because ebay does so much business it goes without saying that there will be a high percentage of bad deals, but that does'nt mean it's not possible to get a good instrument at a fair price. The important thing is to carefully set yourself some 'rules of engagement' and ALWAYS stick to them.

Anyone can get ripped off but then, that happens when dealing with retailers just as much as online. I can think of several instances over the years when estasblished dealers attempted to pull the wool over my eyes,...you have to be careful in this world!

Over the last year my band has aquired a Boosey and Hawkes BBb tuba for £200 which is in daily use in band and also a B&H bass trombone which had no bids during auction,..this was also £200.

Ive found that decen t sellers will give their phone number and go out of their way to communicate and offer to take back the instrument if we are not satisfied. I ALWAYS ask about specific damage so that the seller gets the chance to deal straight. I also try to meet the seller to do the actual deal face to face.

t.luchies

My shared sympathies with all who have been "Evilebay"-ed :)

So a closer inspection/cleaning of my precious Medalist reveals another crack, - but both cracks and the corrosion/redrot are limited to the leadpipe. I guess my boy-scout side will have to come out due to lack of $...

The rest of the cornet is in greatcondition. It'll have to be my player for now anyways (which means practice, not performance). Obviously I can still make-shift practice on it if I seal up and clean it as best I can.

Is it viable to replace the leadpipe - where 90% of the damage is located - later at some point (when the $$ is right)? ...Or will continuing to use this leadpipe (with cracks, minor corrosion & red rot) for a few months mess up the rest of the cornet more?

By the way - it wasn't a total rip-off, despite the problems it WAS dirt cheap - and anyways, it's still tootin' so I'm still happy ;)

Tim

oldlou

For a quick fix that, amazingly, will last for quite a long time, lay a narrow bead of Super Glue in the cracks. When you have the 'wherewithall' to have the leaderpipe either sleeved or replaced, be certain to tell the tech that will be doing the job about the Super Glue. It will produce noxious gases when heated to soldering temperatures.


OLDLOU>>

uapiper

Have you tried to contact your seller? How about starting a dispute with Paypal for a refund. Why don't you publish the sellers info for us so we can avoid them.

I have bought quite a few things on eBay and have gotten downright dirty with the seller if they try to pull a fast one. They tend to resolve themselves.
I would definately try to do something about this, start with contact, see if they will accept a return. Unless specified they shouldn't have a problem, make sure to use your feedback forum and follow up on their action or lack of.

t.luchies

1st - Thanks OLDLOU... you're a pretty good knowledge resource!

2nd - As to uapiper's advice - I am trying to get in contact, but it did have a 'no return/refund.' Anyways, it wouldn't be worth the cost/effort of shipping it back. As to warning, I think it's enough to simply restate the usual - BE SURE, and don't take anything for granted. I was pretty sure and it wasn't enough.

Tim

Indian

It sounds like if you got the horn for "dirt cheap" even if you started a eBay resolution for "Item Not As Described" the postage back could be more than you paid for the horn. If you like the horn otherwise and the rot is all in the lead pipe try OLDLOU's super glue trick. It works sometimes. If you like the horn, a leadpipe fix is not that expensive. I've bought horns off eBay for parts and between two junkers made one keeper. Just an idea. Good Luck and let us know how it works out.

Indian

It sounds like if you got the horn for "dirt cheap" even if you started a eBay resolution for "Item Not As Described" the postage back could be more than you paid for the horn. If you like the horn otherwise and the rot is all in the lead pipe try OLDLOU's super glue trick. It works sometimes. If you like the horn, a leadpipe fix is not that expensive. I've bought horns off eBay for parts and between two junkers made one keeper. Just an idea. Good Luck and let us know how it works out.

Indian

Just as a follow up I have a list of questions I ask. If the seller answers them all you can find out a lot more about the condition of the horn. If not, then he probably is trying to hide something. I ask:
What is the serial number? Are ther any dents, creases, cracks, loose solder joints anywhere on the instrument? Do all three valves move down when pressed and return when released? If not, which one(s) and why? Are all the slides loose? If not, which one? Is there evidence of past repairs or joint solders? Is the finish 100% complete? If not, where and how much is missing?

I also have a philosophy of not buying from a seller if they have a rating < 99.5%. That may sound high but there is no reason not to have a 100%.

Some may disagree????