misty.sj

I just received my Cavalier from eBay. It's in really good shape and was pretty fairly represented. There are two repairs that I want to do right away but want to check first:

1. The first valve button's screw threads appear stripped and it won't stay screwed on. Is it OK to epoxy it in? THis is just the button, not the stem. The stem unscrews from the valve and screws back in just fine.

2. The cork for the water key is really compressed and icky looking. Can I cut my own from a wine cork? We do homebrew wine and mead and have tons of corks sitting around, but no SHEETS of cork.

3. Is it OK to wash all the oil from the valves and slides, and use UltraPure Oil on this instrument?

I'll post pictures soon. I'm still unsure of the provenance and age of this instrument.

__________________
--Misty
Hit it hard, and wish it well. -- Claude Gordon

1925(?) Conn Cavalier Bb (s/n 14142)
2007 Barrington Bb student trumpet

screamingmorris

In my opinion, yes, yes, and yes.

[...of course, there is the opinion among some that you should find out what Morris would do and then do the exact opposite... ]

misty.sj

LOL

By the way, it's a little easier to hit high C on the Cav than my modern trumpet. I'm unsure if it's the bore size or the mouthpiece or what. The horn does feel stuffier, like there is more resistance in the blow.

__________________
--Misty
Hit it hard, and wish it well. -- Claude Gordon

1925(?) Conn Cavalier Bb (s/n 14142)
2007 Barrington Bb student trumpet

screamingmorris

If it was made by Conn back in the 1920's or 1930's, most Conn's back then had a bore size of .438 rather than today's standard of around .460.
And Conn continued making those .438 bores through the 1960's.

But Conn could make that .438 feel like a very small bore (the 1930's peashooters) or a feel like a medium bore (the Conn 22B's) or feel like a large bore (the Connstellations).

So what you are feeling is indeed the extra resistance of the small bore and tight "wrap" that makes high notes a little bit easier.
Same way that a tight throat and backbore on a mouthpiece helps the upper register a little bit (Bill Chase used shallow cup, tight throat, tight backbore, and something like a .450 bore trumpet for resistance *everywhere*).

MFfan

Morris has made a good explanation. I have seen a number of forum members comment on the suffiness of Peashooters like Misty's, but that some can play them fine with the right mouthpiece and in the right playing environment. I think I pointed out awhile back there was another one like Misty's on ebay and I believe it sold for $30. Don't know if it was in as good shape which you can only find out on close examination. Also think it was a mid 30's horn, as Conn made Cavaliers from 33-48 according to the sources. No use paying some else to do repairs you can do yourself, and then you have satisfaction of contributing to the playability of the instrument.

After much work and frustration, I finally got the diverse replacement valves on my Besson aligned and working reliably so I can play it in my musical groups and not worry about sticking valves or stuffy sound. I do feel like I accomplished something of value.

Misty, hope you get lost of quality time on that horn and it sounds like you are open to expanding your stable. I am also, but my wallet isn't cooperating.

__________________
Dave Rafferty
Lemar Trumpet (peashooter-Conn?)
55-56 York Artist Trumpet
Besson 609 Trumpet
1955-60 Besson 8-10 Trumpet
1948 Besson cornet
1946 King Master Cornet
www.kalamazooconcertband.org

PhatLips

try loc-tite blue on the key threads. it will hold them on but break loose when twisted hard.

__________________
JonBoy
Bach Strad 180S-43
Vintage Conn 1923
Kanstul CCT905
Vintage Gretsch Pathfinder