Brian_88

I recently acquired a '61 Buescher 400, and had it put into "playing condition." It needed a second valve bottom cap, and its second valve was stuck, as well as new felts and springs. It would appear that a chem clean was also done, though I can't remember whether I asked for one... Anway, the valves were less than satisfactory when I got it back, and since I had originally requested that the original red steel springs be left in, the first thing I did was have those changed. The valves seem to be improving slowly as I keep playing, but they are unusually sensitive to indirect pressure; in other words, if I strike the valve from any position other than straight up and down, there's some resistence, and often, the valve sticks enough to botch the note. My other Bueschers have exceptionally smooth valve actions, and those are both MUUUUCH older horns (1907 and 1926). What could be causing this poor valve action, and is it something that can be remedied without destroying my wallet? The horn plays wonderfully, especially since I stripped the horrible lacquer it had, so if I can get these valves to where they should be, I'd be a very happy camper.

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-Chris-Kratt Super Deluxe, Mid-60s
-Olds Ambassador, Late 60s
-Buescher Epoch No. 2 Cornet, 1907
-Buescher Tru-Tone Model 9, 1926
-Buescher Model 400, 1961-62
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All on a Schilke 13a4a heavyweight

mimic

I have a Buescher 400 from about the same year. The valves were recently replated by Andersons. They are very fast but I do notice you have to be careful not to put any lateral force on them when depressing. As long as you do that they are fine. I accept this as a reinforcement for my old music teachers admonition about using fingertips only, curled with straight up and down strokes. I guess he knew what he was talking about.

ComeBackKid

I don't know how the valves on this trumpet are constructed so I don't know if this will help but I have found that in many cases the resistance with lateral pressure is due to friction between the valve stem and the valve guide. I put some slide grease on the valve stem to reduce that friction and it frequently helps. This, of course, works best with the valves that have a ring-type guide that slides over the stem. But, even with the internal type, they might stick in the slot. In fact, if yours are the internal type, you might check to see if the shop replaced them backwards or upside down (since they botched the other things they did). If all else fails, try removing the valve guides altogether and then placing the pistons in the casings to see if there is friction during movement without the guides in place - including using lateral pressure.
Good luck.

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Come-Back Kid
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